Casey,
Pardon me if this sounds silly, but was there any marine fuel left in the tank that you are using? IIRC, most outboard engines require oil to be mixed in with the fuel, which would give you the blue haze that you are referring to.
John

Is Imron still available? I had a Cutlass painted with Imron many years ago and it held up very well. It was painted by some of the students at a Vo-tech, and they said it was very easy to apply.

I used that type of tool many, many, years ago, and IIRC, I found that removing the spark plugs and turning the crankshaft while you are trying to pull the rope seal around, made the job much easier. I always found the hardest part was getting the old seal out since the "puller" tool would always just pull out of the "rope".

I have been watching this thread with interest since a brake upgrade for my Constellation is in my plans. Having worked in an IT Support capacity prior to my retirement, I fully understand Erics, and others, discontent with having to continually address the same questions over and over (although here we usually don't have to deal with ID "Ten T" and "PIBCAK" errors).
In defense of the persons asking these questions, as it was also stated, most are new to the Packard world, as well as this forum. There is a plethora of information here for those who want to restore, repair, and/or improve on their vehicles, and it is all to easy to achieve "information overload", and to get lost while researching a solution.
Kev, would it be possible to create a specific "FAQ" forum, and have it located at the top of the Main Menu. Needless to say, the FAQ would function the same as those on newsgroups, but could include recommendations and basic instructions on how to use the Search feature of this board to see if your question has already been answered. Granted, not everyone will use it, but if it reduces redundancy by 25% to 50%, I'm sure everyone would be happy.
Just my .02 worth,
John

Depends on what I am in the mood for. Usually, it's a dirty vodka martini made with Tito's or Svedka.
For sipping, or with water, I like Makers Mark or Woodford Reserve Distiller's Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey.
In wines, I'm partial to the Merlot varietal, and really enjoy Vampire, Blackstone, and Ravenswood.
With a mess of boiled crawfish, it's Abita Turbodog!!!!
And, on the occasions when I feel the need for a nice scotch, I really like the Chivas Royal Salute.
Other than that, it's mostly home made sweet iced tea!!
John

Can you elaborate a little more on this "wreck wrap"?
Thanks

Thanks HH56 for the reply. I searched and could not find a profile picture, but I guess that just means I need to improve my searh techniques. I thought the seal had a locking strip (or is the "open" area in the roughly middle of the seal shown in the profile where the locking strip is)?

Okay Y'all,
I'm at a point where I need to be able to "seal" up my '55 Constellation so I can store parts (upholstery, etc.) inside the car, thus giving me room to work in the garage. Unfortunately, the car cannot fit in the garage due to a wall constructed by previous house owners, so it must stay in the driveway while I work on it. I'da like to be able to install all of the glass so I can protect the contents from the weather, but I don't want to install the "real" replacement gaskets until after the car is nearing completion. Has anyone used the generic windshield gaskets from J.C. Whitney, or any other product that costs less than the Steele replacement gaskets for the windshield and rear window? I have come to the conclusion that I will have to eventually spring for the $200+ each gaskets, from Steele, but I don't want to install them now, and take a chance on damaging them before the car is done.
Also, does anyone have a drawing, or photo, of the gasket "profile" for the OEM style gaskets (my glass was already removed when I bought the car and the remains of the seals are hard and brittle)?
Lastly, has anyone tried installing glass with the butyl seal used in modern cars, and if so, how easy is it to remove the glass after it has been in place for a while (6 months to 1 year).
Thanks,
John

It's hard to tell from the photo, but could it be a form of electrolysis, or just corrosion from sitting up? The condition of the rest of the pistons and the heads could help in identifing the problem.
John

Don,
Aw man, you left the price tag on the trophy!!!!!!
John