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Re: Removing cage from Blower motor
Home away from home
Joined:
2016/3/1 6:56
From Houston, TX
Posts: 154
You guys are awesome. After reading the comments about tapping it and the shaft going through the hub, I went out and looked closer. There was enough crud at the top that I didnt notice the shaft was protruding through a little. I cleaned it up, sprayed a little PB Blaster, then with a fairly gentle tap with a hammer of the slightly protruding shaft it popped right off!

Thanks again. I added a couple photos to aid the next person that thinks they have a problem when they really need to clean up the part first to see what they got....

Looking at the inside, i'll just try to make a low profile splice to the 'good' part of the inside wire instead of messing with where the wires attach to coils.

-Bob

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jpg  blowe rmotor before .jpg (485.55 KB)
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jpg  blower motor with cage off.jpg (448.42 KB)
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jpg  innards of blower motor.jpg (573.48 KB)
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Posted on: 6/24 18:13:17
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Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
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Removing cage from Blower motor
Home away from home
Joined:
2016/3/1 6:56
From Houston, TX
Posts: 154
Hi,
I need to rewire the motor as the current wiring has lost its insulation. The motor works. Any suggestions for how to remove the cage? I've put PB-blaster in the hole where the set screw goes as well as at the other end, pulled and(gently) pried. But it wont budge. I'm concerned about bending the cage or the shaft but the thing wont move.

Any idea as to how hard I can yank on it or other suggestions to remove (to expose wiring) without damage? thanks

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jpg  blow motor.jpg (487.88 KB)
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Posted on: 6/23 20:57:33
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Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
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Re: Brake fluid
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Joined:
2016/3/1 6:56
From Houston, TX
Posts: 154
The DOT3 and DOT 4 you see in all the stores are labeled synthetic. That is okay as all brake fluid is synthetic. It is the DOT5 you want to stay away from for a stock car, as bkasmer stated, as that is a silicone based product. That will cause problems with rubber seals not designed to handle DOT5 fluid.
I use DOT3 in my Patrician, buying the small, yellow Prestone plastic bottles available most places. The bottles say Synthetic like every other brake fluid out there, whether the are marked that way or not.

DOT4 can be used and mixed in too, it just has a higher boiling point. (Oddly there is now a DOT 5.1, which is more like 3 and 4 as glycol based, which would be okay too at an even higher boiling point)

Posted on: 6/1 7:15:36
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Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
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Re: Undercoating experiences?
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Joined:
2016/3/1 6:56
From Houston, TX
Posts: 154
Got a little more into it today. A lot of the undercoating was loose, and under it was rust. Even the parts that didnt seem like they were separating, there was some rust underneath. So, going to just grind out it all and prime/paint well. Also have this patch/stiffener on the driver side. A little afraid to take it off but I'll see how much rust is around it etc.

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jpg  under the undercoating.jpg (853.39 KB)
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jpg  fender stiffener.jpg (911.23 KB)
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Posted on: 5/9 21:04:31
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Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
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Re: Undercoating experiences?
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Joined:
2016/3/1 6:56
From Houston, TX
Posts: 154
Thanks all, very useful comments as usual. I am not ready to replace the whole fender. I'd have an even bigger painting problem and I'm not ready to have the whole car painted. Plus I want to get this front end back on and drive her again..

Overall, the metal on this car is very good. This patch area is def the worst of anything on the body. A lot of surface rust here and there on the frame but I've been sanding it back, applying Ospho, priming, then covering with Hirsch Chassis black paint as I work front to back.

As nudged by ewrecks, This seems like a good opportunity for me to practice with body filler techniques to see what it looks like. I'm no worse off in the near term and I can always do that fender replacement when I get ready to repaint the car.

I'll forgo trying to replace any missing undercoating and just use good primer and the Hirsch top coat.

It is hard to find epoxy primer locally, so I am ordering some online to give the wire brushed bare metal a good base for the rest.

thanks for your advice.
-Bob

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jpg  Patrician.JPG (519.26 KB)
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Posted on: 5/9 12:37:27
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Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
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Re: Undercoating experiences?
Home away from home
Joined:
2016/3/1 6:56
From Houston, TX
Posts: 154
All, thank you for the responses.
Marston, I am going to save that comprehensive response for when I tackle repainting, if I decide to try myself. Not ready for that yet.

But I do want to clean up some visible rust and rust damage before reinstalling the front clip. Here is a closer up view of the worst of it. It looks like an old bondo repair that got worse, plus a few new rust holes. I don't have body work experience or a welder. So my plan for this area is to sand the rust out to bare metal, remove as much of the old bondo as I can, put a mesh on the back side and fill with some brand (TBD?) of body filler. Sand, etc, cover with epoxy primer (I have a can of Eastwood 2K epoxy primer on the way), then top coat just that area that is below the chrome trim piece. (above in the photo since front clip is upside down.). I have a can of SprayMax I ordered in Packard Sapphire Blue. It's pretty close to the color of the car, and I painted the firewall with it. Looks nice.

In cleaning up the inside of the wheel wells, there was a little surface rust here and there, but overall in good shape. The undercoating that Packard used is intact in most places but i was looking to add where I sanded it off to attack rust. But after reading these responses, maybe best is to paint (will be black) with epoxy primer and paint and call that good enough.

Also interesting is the series of holes that PO drilled along edge of the air duct welded to passenger side. Not sure if they were trying to drill through all the tack welds to remove the duct or some other motivation.

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jpg  closeup rust holes.jpg (530.20 KB)
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jpg  packard spray paint.jpg (600.26 KB)
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jpg  inside front chain drill of air vent.jpg (413.98 KB)
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jpg  outer front chain drill of air vent.jpg (488.73 KB)
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Posted on: 5/8 7:57:00
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Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
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Undercoating experiences?
Home away from home
Joined:
2016/3/1 6:56
From Houston, TX
Posts: 154
I have the front clip off of my '55 and I am cleaning up rust, holes etc before I put it back on and lose easy access. In my wire brushing (with angle grinder), some of the undercoating in the wheel wells and other areas has come off.

Does anyone have any positive experience with a particular undercoating product I should use to replace? I see products out there from Rustoleum, Eastwood,and others as well as lots of warnings about undercoating retaining moisture and causing rust, etc. It seems like a rubberized product would help in noise deadening vs a harder truck bed liner product but by now I am sure that people have tried a bunch of options.

thanks

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jpg  front clip upside down in driveway.jpg (669.23 KB)
120663_5eb34f65d70b2.jpg 2048X1536 px

Posted on: 5/6 17:21:06
_________________
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
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Re: Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser Spring
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Joined:
2016/3/1 6:56
From Houston, TX
Posts: 154
Still futzing with this $&#* spring. When the engine is running it bounces between partially open and closed making the engine erratic, of course.

The spring is from Max, wondering if it is not getting enough heat transfer from the shaft of the valve. I have the radiator out now as I work on the cleaning up the front clip to soon reunite with the rest. SO I can't try out any options but clearance to this valve will never be better so want to get your opinions to take my best shot at it. I all can think of is to better crimp the shaft around the spring tang to get more heat transfer, but wondering if anyone else has had challenges getting these to work? Seems like it should be easy, assuming I got the right spring from Max.

Any suggestions?

thx

Posted on: 4/20 19:43:37
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Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
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Re: Front Stabilizer Bar End bushing orientation
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Joined:
2016/3/1 6:56
From Houston, TX
Posts: 154
Having not heard any response on this, I decided to press on.

I slid the narrow end of the bushing in the channel of the lower control arm. With both sides in, I used a C-clamp to compress the very tips of the bar in as much as possible to compress the rubber bushing. Then used another C-clamp to squeeze in the clip. Once the two top 'teeth' of the clip touched the control arm, I used a little screwdriver to pop the teeth up and with a few more turns of the C-clamp, they popped right into their slots.

I've been dreading this task for a while, but it turns out it was very straightforward. This technique is different than what is in the SC but worked well. It is attributed to Ross and I read about it in info that Dwight Heinmuller sent me (attributing Ross) when I bought his new rear bushings. Very handy and THANK YOU to both.

Just wanted to close out this post with a positive account.

thx

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jpg  installing front stabilizer bushings.jpg (262.65 KB)
120663_5e814d9384229.jpg 2048X1152 px

Posted on: 3/29 18:38:31
_________________
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
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Front Stabilizer Bar End bushing orientation
Home away from home
Joined:
2016/3/1 6:56
From Houston, TX
Posts: 154
Gents,
I am at the point of trying to reinstall the front stab bar with new bushings from Max/Steele. I've read as many posts as I can regarding creating a version of the official tool and directions from Heinmuller/Ross.

I think I am going to try the Heinmuller/Ross approach which is to use vise grips to squeeze the bar in as far as possible, then a C-clamp horizontally to compress the clip while using a small screwdriver to lift the top tabs over the top of the lower control arm and into the slots.

Just to be sure I am chosing the proper pain, what is the right orientation of the end bushings? They are rectangular. So do I put the narrow end in the channel and really, really compress the clip with the C-clamp? Or do I force the wider end into the channel so that less is sticking out to be compressed by the C-clamp?

thanks
Bob

Attach file:



jpg  ft stab bar bushing wide.jpg (447.99 KB)
120663_5e5ae6ffa30ea.jpg 2048X1152 px

jpg  ft stab bar bushing narrow.jpg (514.27 KB)
120663_5e5ae7118277a.jpg 2048X1152 px

Posted on: 2/29 14:40:13
_________________
Bob
1955 Packard Patrician
Sapphire Blue
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