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Re: 1950 Packard color
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2013/7/17 6:26
From Clover, SC
Posts: 659
Since it's a "left over" '49 1950, aka 23 series (23xx-5) the '49 - '51 paint charts apply and are the same/correct.
The photos color match to the paint charts* isn't good, like most pictures of "chips". Light when taken, etc., condition of both paints comes into play.
The two candidates given, are both "poly" or metallic flake, offered in enamel and lacquer, so there's a fair amount of variation in application. Flake should be observable in the finish for either.

My eyes, closest match is the 30469 Egyptian sand poly(lighter hue than argentine). But we're talking 70 year old paint, if original, so I'd expect variation/fading.
Without the paint code off the trim tag/build sheet, can not be conclusive. Can not even assume original paint without documentation and paint forensics.
One could buy some, ~1/2 pt, paint a sample and compare.
Test car with hand held colorimeter connected to the paint database.

* - Packinfo and auto color library same Ditzler charts.

Posted on: 10/25 6:53:20
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Re: Remove the Speedometer cable
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2013/7/17 6:26
From Clover, SC
Posts: 659
Lots of debate on the proper lube for speedo cables.
I'd look in the service manual first. Then period Motors or similar auto manuals for documentation.
If it has an "oiler" and "felt wick" it's correct to suspect oil is proper as the speedoman sed.

I know the Cads don't recommend graphite, gets up in the "clock" and they used to sell a GM cable luber, I had one, that had white lithium grease in it. But that was later vintage well after Packard. Other's swear by graphite, so choose accordingly.
Petrified grommets are pretty common. I'd replace, as you want to seal out the engine vapors. CO is a silent killer.

Posted on: 10/23 17:27:31
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Re: 1948 Packard Station Wagon With Steel Doors
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2013/7/17 6:26
From Clover, SC
Posts: 659
That's the one pictured but the Neal narrative goes a little deeper about making that a 23 series model, 2373. Apparently, in preceeding pages, the decision to stake the wagon tool up was a bust. Not selling the "quota" to break even and many left over in '48. I would suspect some "scrambling" to sell that pile, but speculates.
From an aesthetic view, the wood looks kinda outta place, "pasted" on and doesn't really fit. "Sans door wood" looks much cleaner.
I'm in the camp that says this "hunk" is no rarebird. Just need more proof.

Posted on: 10/16 6:58:45
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Re: Charge rate for "49 Custom 8
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2013/7/17 6:26
From Clover, SC
Posts: 659
I assume you have a "problem" with it and not just out testing for the curiosity of it?
Not sure I understand how you're measuring, but I think you're not measuring full amps if using the "gauge" leads. That's not really an "ammeter". It measures relative direction of current flow. A coil creates a field as the current flows and the magnetic needle moves with the field polarity. More current stronger field, more deflection. When needles in the "center", it's supposedly fully charged up but can still be drawing low amps. I think you have to measure on the output lead. If you have a clamp type ammeter it's easier than putting DVM in series.
I recall that '49 gen is rated 30 or 35 A. So if pulling 20, not much left at idle. If you need more power, then ether change the gen or have rewound. I think there's an amp v rpm chart, in the shop manual, I seen it, not sure where. Maybe Delco?
Take to the local parts store that has diagnostic tools and let them put their battery machine on it. They can test 6V.
Or an auto electric shop and let them test it all. Some charge, some don't.
Another thing to do is have someone pedal the gas while parked in neutral and observe the lights from the side (safety) They should not go dim at idle. A small difference is ok. I'd suspect the battery if dimming alot.

Posted on: 10/15 17:51:55
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Re: 1948 Packard Station Wagon With Steel Doors
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2013/7/17 6:26
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Ok, groovy guys and gals.
Go to the Bob Neal book on the '48-50s , pp 172 &173, and you can see the model without the door wood. Nice metallic green one.
The bigger issue is that was a '49 (23) model listed as 2373.
So "door wood delete" was apparently done at some point, by hook or crook.
Doesn't solve the history of this particular motor car.
with it's 2293 pedigree. But I've seen so many things done after a car is that old, who knows what's real? Many think they do, but without documentation, all hearsay.

Posted on: 10/13 18:15:54
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Re: 1948 Packard Station Wagon With Steel Doors
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2013/7/17 6:26
From Clover, SC
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1948 2293 = Std 8 Pass sedan.
I guess the question is was the "wood" normally added over the steel door skin? If so, no rare bird biggie here. Most likely for me.
I'd suggest, research if "door wood delete" was an option/other photos*.
If the wood failed for some reason even 20 years after and was removed and resprayed, by now the paint would be indistinguishable from factory. Easy to see the condition of the remaining wood.

The "faux" woodie became more common than "all wood" as they got away from the early '30s up woodies as woodworking was no longer used in body construction. Eventually, they even went to faux vinyl covering between the slats well after Packard died - Pinto's, Chrysler vans, etc. '48 is a little early for that technology. Even the slats weren't wood by then.
I've only seen 1-2 of these on TV going to auction, just not a long wheelbase kinda guy but a soft spot for a '30s woodie.
* - need period photos unfortunately b/w because sales lit was still artist rendered in this era.

Posted on: 10/8 11:59:34
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Re: Back-Up Lights on 50 Deluxe
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2013/7/17 6:26
From Clover, SC
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If I recall correctly, the tail light harness runs down along the interior under the carpet inside rocker or trans tunnel into the trunk. Haven't worked on that one in a few years. Manual here, not sure where the ultramatic wiring comes from. Should be on a wiring diagram in the shop manual.
After a second peak, reading the addtions, those wires on the Unity are not circa '50 materials, so a dead give away, it's after market. Not a big deal to parallel a second light off the one. Just has to be wired parallel or one will be dimmer.

Posted on: 9/19 17:55:19
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Re: VOLTAGE REGULATOR
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2013/7/17 6:26
From Clover, SC
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Assuming the battery and gauge are good, and it's actually not "overcharging"(boiling), then either it's not gett