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Re: 37 6 cylinder reassemble issues
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
Removed the graphite seal.

Removed all rod caps, wiped all pre-lube bearing surfaces with 30W,
While cleaning I saw that the edges of the bearings were being polished and the centers were not.

Discussed this with the friend who is assisting and he questioned a radius at the edges of the journals.

That brought back the discussion with the crank guy that he was going to do a radius,,,

From what I remember from last summer the crank was square cut on the journal to counter weight and he was going to add what ever radius he could.

So on Thursday we are going to do the adjustment to the edges


More later this week

Posted on: 2/16 15:08:39
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Larry Reber
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Re: 37 6 cylinder reassemble issues
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
Thanks for the info.
I am Using a best gasket set that had the graphite rope and install instructions for a Packard.

The oil slinger now makes sense since it dug into the rope.

I'll be getting it removed and retorque the bearings.

Thanks Larry,
Oh.
Engine building experience
High school, rambler 6
1990's did a 49 Buick 8
2000 did a 27 Model t (still have that one)
Now my 37,

Henry Ford said once,
An educated man is not one who knows it all but knows how to find the answer,


Thanks for educating
Larry

Posted on: 2/14 19:17:38
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Re: 1937 Six transmission
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
I have a pump for my outboard lower unit refill that fits a quart bottle. I got mine years ago at West Marine

Posted on: 2/14 13:48:22
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37 6 cylinder reassemble issues
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
Ok,,, I have started the reassembly on the engine, installed the rear main seal, and dry install the mains and rods to plastic gauge , mains were center of the bands, rods were less than .001 and more than .0005 inches.
So r&r crank,, lube with assy lube, using a breaker bar on the balancer nut to rotate the crank
commenced torquing, l did the mains to 85 lb and could could rotate the Crankshaft fairly easily,
Did the rods next after oiling the pistons and cylinders I installed the pistons and rod bearings.


TROUBLE arose.

I Figured torque was in the 45 lb for this engine.
Ok...
Problem
can only torque rod caps to 15lb and still rotate the Crankshaft,

So. Looking for some insights,

Crank was 10 under ground and I purchased the 10 over bearings.
Rod caps were resized for the late model 10 over bearings



My thoughts are to torque the rods to 15 to 18 pounds and install the cotter pins.
Run the car for about 100 miles and pull the pan and torque to 45 pounds, and check rotation,

I wanted a tight engine and it seams that's what I have.


Thanks in advance for your experience.

Larry

Posted on: 2/14 11:58:27
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Re: 1937 wheel cylinders
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
My NAPA store has these in-stock or at the local ware house along with the flex hoses, Ill look for Numbers if different than those posted, Then counter person just entered those numbers and WOW on the shelf ....

Posted on: 2/3 18:44:38
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Re: Brake and Clutch pedal "Thump"
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
Check out STEEL RUBBER site
These are for a 37 115c ( did not see your year)
These require the Brake and Clutch arms to be removed from the car and the seals slid over the pedal end and then reinstalled.


Brake and clutch shank seal
p/n: 30-0143-24

Boot, brake and clutch pedal shank at toe board.Length: 2.9375 inches.

Posted on: 1/8 16:54:30
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Re: 1937 115C mechanical refresh
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
Here is what I found in the parts book.section 5.15001

It appears to be. 196801
Washer. 120's through to 115c
Larry

Posted on: 12/13 21:46:27
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Re: 1937 115C mechanical refresh
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
I have a replacement snubber / stabilizer.
(Forum QUESTION) Where do I find the replacement specialized washer ?

I'll call MAX MERRITT tomorrow to see if they have one now that I know where and what the broken part is and used for.

Posted on: 12/12 21:55:41
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Re: 1937 115C mechanical refresh
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
Figured this out this afternoon.
This is part of the snubber assembly.
The The stud bolts to bottom of transmission. The cupped washer rides with the lips towards the top and provides a sliding action on the snubber.
I found this when I took the snubber off of the frame mount. The snubbed was original to the car. See photos

Attach file:



jpg  20191212_134900.jpg (553.79 KB)
155070_5df2d280e97a6.jpg 2048X1536 px

jpg  20191212_134823.jpg (499.09 KB)
155070_5df2d2c958931.jpg 2048X1536 px

Posted on: 12/12 15:52:52
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Larry Reber
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Re: 1937 115C mechanical refresh
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
. Working on left driver side motor mount. Attached are picture of my parts that I had bagged.
Question I have is the Casteel nut stud install location. And my broken shoulder washer. 1/2 id hole 1" od.
See photographs.
Took this apart 11 months ago, now I'm trying to remember where they go. Aarg.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks to all
Larry.

Attach file:



jpg  20191212_123414.jpg (433.83 KB)
155070_5df2a78dea01a.jpg 2048X1536 px

Posted on: 12/12 12:50:12
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