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   All Posts (PackardusOctavus)


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49 Standard 8 Uphostery
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Joined:
2018/9/4 13:35
From Blairs, Virginia
Posts: 71
The top of the back seat of my 49 Standard 8 has sun cancer, so I have to have it redone. Its already been redone once, with tan wool or something. What fabric should I get, and where do I get it? The Green Engine Heretic parts car has a cream fabric, with a blue pinstripe. I may have to do the door skins too, so what about that?

Posted on: 1/24 9:06:43
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The End of the Engine Color Controversy
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Joined:
2018/9/4 13:35
From Blairs, Virginia
Posts: 71
As we all know, there has been a running controversy as to what color 48-50 engine blocks are supposed to be. Some say green, some say gray. Here is a pic of the engine from Packard H260007. This puts it in the latter half of the 23d series run: "LATE 49 (23rd Series): Engine numbers for the Standard/Deluxe Eights were H-200001 to H-291000 for 1949 (Series 2300)."

That's a green engine.

Attach file:



jpg  HPIM3254.JPG (568.88 KB)
182383_5e00f088dd1c6.jpg 2047X1526 px

jpg  HPIM3261.JPG (564.75 KB)
182383_5e00f09b02dc1.jpg 2047X1526 px

Posted on: 12/23 8:53:21
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PARTING OUT 50 CLUB SEDANS
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Joined:
2018/9/4 13:35
From Blairs, Virginia
Posts: 71
I have two Club Sedans for parts. One is a 49, and one is a 50. The 49 has a 288, which runs. It did not run long, and it when we shot gas down the carb, but it did fire right up, to our great surprise, as its been sitting for decades. I'd like to put this on a trailer and use it to power something industrial, like a steam jenny, but that's probably never going to happen. Its still in the car, and is mated to an Ultramatic. Don't know the status of the transmission. I just can't crush a running 288 without asking if anyone wants it.

The 50 is also a 288. Its arriving next week, so I don't knew exactly what its got on it yet. Between the two I have a lot of parts.

Also, soon for sale will be a set (all 4) window surrounds for a Club Sedan. These have the chrome highlights on them, but are not for a Custom. They are for a Super, and possibly a Standard 8 Deluxe. NOT for Standard 8. They are in good shape but will need woodgraining and fuzzies.

Posted on: 12/5 13:07:31
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Re: 49 Window sweeps/fuzzies
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Joined:
2018/9/4 13:35
From Blairs, Virginia
Posts: 71
Excellent.. Thanks!

Posted on: 12/5 9:30:15
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49 Window sweeps/fuzzies
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Joined:
2018/9/4 13:35
From Blairs, Virginia
Posts: 71
Got the newly woodgrained dash back, and its gorgeous. WHn installing the instrument cluster, note that Packard did not waste an inch of wire, but was promiscuous with electrical tape, which after 70 years turns to iron.

Attach the clock wire and fuse off the car, as its too short to do under the dash. When installing the instrument cluster, start reattaching wires by component, not by wire. Start at the bottom of the cluster and do the four bottom dash lights and the circuit breaker. Then the two lower gauges, then the two upper gauges, hi beam, turn signal and the 4 dash lights.

DO NOT remove the circuit breaker once its's on the cluster! Its held in by two flat screws, and its almost impossible to get it out while its in the car, and completely impossible to get it back in. My son could not get the wires on the breaker, so he took out the breaker and put the wires on it, and then could not et the breaker back in, and left it for me to do. I had to take the whole cluster out and reinstall it.

There are two pieces of canvas that go between the cluster panel and the dash. These are anti squeak strips. Trying to thread the attaching screws thru these and into the nut is a chore. I got some glue and glued them to the panel, not the dash, and it was not too bad.

NOTE that there are differences in the 22d series wiring diagram and the 23d series wiring diagram, and especially the turn signal system.


My correct Standard 8 window moldings/surrounds are also back, and are magnificent! However, they no longer have the window fuzzies on them. It appears that these are pretty generic, and sold by height and width. The height can be easily measured, but since the fuzzy is what's worn away, anyone have any idea of the width?

Also, how are these things attached? My cursory inspection did not reveal any holes for staples, screws, etc. Did Packard have a magic glue or something?

Posted on: 12/2 10:34:45
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Re: 1950 Packard 8 interior door panels
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Joined:
2018/9/4 13:35
From Blairs, Virginia
Posts: 71
Is it a two door or 4 door? Also, Standard 8, Super 8, or Custom 8?

Posted on: 12/2 10:10:36
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23d Series Standard 8 Club Sedan Reading Lamp Wiring
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Joined:
2018/9/4 13:35
From Blairs, Virginia
Posts: 71
FYI, since the wiring diagrams are just diagrams, the reading lamp wiring for the above is as follows:

Hot from accessory breaker on back of speedo cluster, then behind glove box, up the pillar, under the headliner to the reading lamp, thru the bulb and then to the switch on the pillar. The switch grounds the circuit to the body and lights the bulb. The wiring does not appear to be connected to the door switches.

Posted on: 2019/9/12 11:22
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Re: Overdrive kickdown switch position
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Joined:
2018/9/4 13:35
From Blairs, Virginia
Posts: 71
Thanks for your quick reply. The carb starter switch is disconnected; car starts with a button on the dash. The problem is that the car starts running terribly once you push the accel all the way down, and does not run correctly until the OD disengages. I theorized that it had something to do with the carb starter because i did not realize that carb starter is 3/4 down. Is it possible that (nonfunctioning) carb starter is not installed incorrectly and causing a flood or something?

Posted on: 2019/8/2 9:21
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Overdrive kickdown switch position
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Joined:
2018/9/4 13:35
From Blairs, Virginia
Posts: 71
Where is the adjustment for the overdrive kickdown switch position? Mine is so far down the pedal that it does not function until the carb starter solenoid engages.

Posted on: 2019/8/2 7:42
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Re: Change of radiator core affecting cooling performance in 1949, 23rd series
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Joined:
2018/9/4 13:35
From Blairs, Virginia
Posts: 71
I've had the same sort of problem. I'm told that any of the radiators are big enough to cool the engine under all conditions so I copper recored mine. While mine was out, I took off the water pump, pulled out the water dist tube, and stuck a pressure washer into the hole. I even made an extension for the upper rad hose and, after removing the thermo, blocked off the lower exit hole and ran water backwards thru the head. After about 30 gallons it was running clean, and the stuff that came out of the block looked like life on Mars. Runs pretty cool now. Also, I suggest getting an infrared temp reader gun off of ebay so you can read the temp at different places on the block and radiator.

Posted on: 2019/8/2 7:37
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