Flackmaster, I have PM'd you.

I have all four hubcaps for my 1937 115C but they are less than great looking. They suffer from road rash, pitting, or horribly thinned plating, mostly in a combination of all three. I had tried to order repro hubcaps about three ago only to find out that I was too late to the party with Hirsch, Merrit, and Kanter all listing them on their website at the time but all ultimately turning up as out of stock with very little hope of additional runs ever being made. So I am trying to find a company that may do restoration of hubcaps but I have been getting skunked on that too. The ones I have been able to track down appear to have given up restoring them. Does anyone know of someone that might do such restoration or (as a definite long shot) have a set of repros languishing around that they might be interested in parting with?

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I'm with portlandon. Our jack stands of choice have always been 4x4's. I have bought jack stands but I still use the 4x4's along with them as I trust the lumber more than the stands.

I can’t seem to find this info. Any idea what torque specs are on the bell hosing screws on a 37 Six? I have found oil pan to crank case listed in my Motor’s Manual to be “9-11 pounds feet” but can’t seem to locate those for the bell housing.

Thank you. Your answer is pretty much what I had in mind, but just wanted to confirm. BTW, I got Coker Garfields for the 37 and Coker Goodrich for the 41. Both are bias ply and tubed.

I have an idea what the answer is, but I will ask this question of those with more knowledge then me. I recently put new tires and tubes on a 37 and a 41 Packard. The tire walls say to inflate to 33 PSI but the owner's manuals say 22PSI and 28/32PSI respectively. What is the reason for the spec PSI being different from the sidewall PSI?

Thank you Wesley. Some of that seemed vaguely familiar from back when my father dropped the pan on the 37 Six. I'm thinking he may have had to remove the bell housing (any one care to verify this for me?). I don't recall having to do anything with the idler arm though. I'll have to go back to the car and study the lay of the land. Even if your experience doesn't represent the same experience with my engine, it was a great refresher and served as a reminder that even with the easiest appearing job, nothing is easy , and no 20 minute job takes 20 minutes .

Also I was glad to see you had episodes of My Classic Car that I had not been able to find on my own. I had seen the final episode on YouTube but was unable to find the others. Glad you were successful tracking them down. I also found the other videos of the work you had done on your Packard and I will be going back to look at those for informational purposes.

I ordered my oil pan gasket and a bottle of Permatex shellac today. Makes sense to check for sludge while I'm doing the oil change. I haven't seen the bottom of that engine in over 40 years when my father did the oil pan after he got the car.

1- I was thinking of using either mineral spirits or gasoline to clean the sludge and the pump screen. Thoughts on that?

2- forewarned is forearmed so, should I be expecting any issues or problematic areas while I am removing/reattaching the pan?

I was hoping to avoid doing that, but it probably would be wise to do it.

Thanks for the info.