UPDATE
I have received the new sending unit from Dennis-Carpenter. The threads matched up perfectly and it physically fits, only now instead of the reading going from cold to all the way hot. it starts at cold and goes past that to even colder as the engine warms up. Is there some wire that I need to change around to get this unit to function as the original once did?
Could this possibly be caused by a short? I would'nt think so, however my wiring is very old and crumbly.

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I've been away and/or busy with work, so I hadn't read about your saga in a several months. Great to see you got to spend some time driving it, and making memories with your family, before you decided to go deeper into it!

1. What led to you pulling the coolant system back apart? I thought you had a mechanic flush it last year? On the crud issue, now that you have the distribution tube off, you can use a combination of pressure washer, long stiff wires, etc to flush the block. On my 120 I soaked it in oxalic acid, neutralized it, and then let circulated warm evaporust through the block for a few days. It's super clean inside now. I was fighing an overheating problem that ultimately turned out to be related to an improper radiator core - recored the radiator to factory spec, and now it doesn't overheat, even in the hot Florida summer!

2. Similar questions on compression. What led to you taking the readings, as I thought you were quite satisfied with the car's performance? Before you pull the engine out, find a shop, and spend a few years/many thousands of dollars, I would suggest conducting a leak down test. I did that on my 120, and determined a compression problem I was having was a bad head gasket. Given that your three low cylinders are all in a row, it very well could be a head gasket. A leak down test will also isolate the compression problem to valves or cylinders. If cylinders is the problem, adding oil will tell you if the problem is worn rings or not. If valves are the problem, a quick hand lapping may be all that is needed! There is a lot you can diagnose before you take the engine to a shop! Also, on the compression test, did you perform it with the throttle held wide open, and allow 2-3 pulses so the reading could stabilize? Seems odd that it was running well for you recently yet suddenly has low compression.

I've been through a lot of mechanical stuff on the same engine you have, to include an in-frame overhaul, and many of the details are on my blog linked below. My advice would be thoroughly determine what your problem areas are before fully rebuilding. Yes, you could just send it out for a rebuild, but it may not be needed.

Best of luck, and happy to discuss further if it would be of help to you. Beautiful car!

Caution is the key. Make any packing nut adjustments with coolant in the system. I'd observe for evidence of a leak after adjusting, and if you still have a leak, I'd try another 1/4 turn. The nut does not need to be tight. If your engine is in running condition, I'd run it a few minutes after adjusting the packing nut, then look for any leakage. NEVER run the engine without coolant unless you remove the fan belt. Doing so is very likely to damage the pump seal. You may be able to use a small mirror to get a better idea of exactly what is leaking. Wipe everything dry with a soft clean cloth, then wait a while and then look for any new leakage. Good bright light is always helpful when looking for leaks.

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My housing was a bit rough as well and I used the regular gasket with some Permatex 2 sealant. That was a year ago and all has been well. Also, if 51 is like 53, which I would guess it is, the bolts for the thermostat housing need to be sealed as well as they go through to the water jacket.

There are vendors listed in the Directory.

For new parts, Max Merrit would be you best bet.

Many of other vendors have good use parts and some NOS.

I thought changing out the thermostat would be a nice, straightforward task as a first job with the newly acquired 1950, 2301 Regular Eight Touring Sedan. (I will register soon) When the housing was removed there was no retaining collar present! I am therefore looking to acquire one or an entire subsystem. Kanter does not have any nor a one-piece replacement they once offered. They gave me a part number PAC 348537. Might there be dimensions available to have machined into existence?

On this www.Packardonfo.com does a list of qualified vendors exist for when a search like this is required? Amazon and ebay also do not have these parts. What are your thoughts on a modern one-piece system? Does one exist for this car? I humbly ask for your assistance in helping locate what I need to get my 'blooper' back on the road. I want this car to be a regular driver and not a show car.

I believe these are the part numbers taken off a Packard Parts List from this site:

Thermostat housing - 5.0508

Thermostat - 5.0506

Retaining Collar - 5.0507

Gasket (paper?) - 5.0509 (Should I consider a cork gasket as the mating surface of the housing is a bit rough?)


Thank you very much.

Got a few things done this evening.

First I installed a "Hope I never need it" accessory.




The bracket is attached to the floor.

Next since I've had the car it's had a few mystery leaks. Leaking coolant from the engine towards the back. I re torqued down all the head nuts. There actually were a few that were a couple of pounds shy of spec. The jag motor has an external water distribution tube and I think part of the leak maybe where it bolts to the engine. So I tightened down all those bolts as well. That all helped, but still had a seap in a few spots. So next up was the pulp pellets.




Basically one pellet takes care of 1/2 gallon of coolant capacity. So I needed 8 pellets as the coolant system takes about 4 gallons.

So after pre-crushing the pellets and mixing them up with a little bit of new coolant in a mixing cup, I got engine up to temp so I knew the thermostat was open and circulating and poured the slurry into the radiator and let circulate for 15 mins.

I then prepared to paper train the Jackard to identify locations of any additional leaks.

Fresh Newspaper on a clean drip tray, and a couple of magnets to prevent the paper from moving around.





And under the car it goes.




I'll check in the morning and see if there is any evidence of coolant.

I know am seaping a little bit of oil. Which I think is one of cam oil lines in the rear. Also maybe a bit of rear seal leak.

Ok. So turn and test. I turned it a 1/4 and it doesn’t feel much resistance. Will proceed with caution.

You don't want it too tight, as that can cause premature shaft wear.

Ladies and Gentlemen Will be uploading new pics today!! Almost there!!!