If you want to download the 48 fact book there are some interior dimension charts for the various body styles. Depending on how much headroom and legroom under the wheel you have when seated it might be possible to add some shims under the seat tracks to raise the entire seat frame depending on the length of the threaded studs going thru the floor. This was something dealers could have done to fine tune to a drivers comfort when the cars were new and some years even had various height shims listed in parts books.

And there are some people who have mounted the switch on the floor in front of the battery box so the lever is near the seat front edge. I think depending on model the lever winds up out of sight just under the seat edge but still easy to reach or just in front exposed but still out of the way and not an obstruction. Am fairly sure there are some photos of the floor install on site but can't remember the cars or who posted them right now. Maybe someone else can direct you to those photos.

Those are just rivets and there is no provision for lubricating the bushing at that end of the motor other than disassembling.

Thanks Dan. I responded to your PM. Will get back to you shortly.

Dezi

Are these lubrication points on my blower motor, or something else? 53 Cavalier

The seats were set rather low in those cars. I have always put wooden blocks under the seat tracks on any one I owned as I greatly prefer to sit high in a car.

175 is absolutely fine. Those gages read H when the ignition is off, should go to C when you start, then move up the scale as the engine warms. You probably just need a new sender.

Sounds like there are definitely issues with your gauge, maybe wiring got mixed up when you were working on it? I'd do a little double checking to see if you can find the issue.

Thermostat should be operating around 160 so I don't think your engine temp is too far off. I remember checking head temp on my some time ago, but don't remember what it was.

I have been having overheating problems. My dash temp gauge runs backward. When engine is off the gauge starts at hot and as the engine warms up it goes to cool. I think I wired it per harness diagram. While idling the guage eventually pegs out on the left side (cool) I used my temp sensor gun and the block temp reads is at about 175 . How hot should the block be?
Thanks, Mike

Quote:
You would mount the cutoff switch remotely, possibly through the firewall.