Also a couple good raps on the both sides the head with a heavy mallet may help break loose the gasket or what ever corosion could be holding it firm.

If the engine is the original there will also be a number stamped on the top of the block in the space between the oil filler tube and left head. It may be faint and partially covered by the oil filter but would have been the same as the one that should have been on the door pillar. That looks to be a two door so if it is a 55 Super hardtop it would begin 5547-xxxx.

The car is a 55 but reverse lights were optional on the lower models. If installed at the factory they usually appeared under the tail light as those are. If a car was ordered without but an owner decided he wanted them later on the dealer would install the kind that bolts on the panel below the trunk lid.

Here is the 55-6 number chart and where to look for the motor number.

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I have had several 1940 110s one of which was the same color as yours and none had the larger outside spring. Since the lower pivot is held on with a u-bolt, it seems you can just remove the spring and push the pivot upward to take up the space. It it's retained in its current location by a pin from the pivot casting into a hole in the tube, perhaps the column is the incorrect one for a 110 or else the assembly was put into the firewall a little farther than it was supposed to be.

Try something really simple first; leave the spark plugs in, everything else removed, and crank the starter motor. Sometimes we're lucky and the compression force is enough to pop the head loose.

That failing, use several thin blades like putty or spackle knives and kitchen spatulas (the thinner the better) and carefully work you way along the edges, tapping the blade into the gasket. Once you get a little clearance, use thicker blades. Be patient and careful - you don't want to damage the surface of the block or the head. Typically just working along the non-manifold side of the head is sufficient but if it's really stuck you might consider removing the manifolds so you have an addition interface to attack.

A little of your favorite penetrating oil around each head stud beforehand can't hurt, might help.

Leave the thermostat housing and the heater water valve installed, they are useful handholds for lifting the head once it's free.

Hey y'all, I just recently acquired what I was told was a '56 Clipper Super. I'm also very new to Packards. I did some research and determined it is actually a '55. But, I just saw a picture of another '55 and the reverse lights are in a different position. I would love some help identifying this car. If there was a tag in the door jamb, it's not there anymore.
Thanks in advance.

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What is the best way to remove the head?
I have all the nuts, bolts and other attachments off, but this car sat for 40 odd years, and doesn't want to let go.

I suspect you are correct about the large spring not being stock and also believe it could be someone's attempt at either a repair or to change a characteristic. Aside from the shape of the levers the mechanism is the same as that used on the Clippers. There may be minor differences in a part size or how a part looks between the conventional cars and the Clipper but the basic construction and operation is the same.

Clippers do not have the larger diameter bottom spring and the lower end of the tube is threaded. Above the upper lever is a clip and washer to keep lever from raising above the the specific designed position on the tube. Below the lower lever is another washer and shim, held on the tube by another clip. The bracket holding the U bolt threads onto the shaft and is turned until it moves upward to where the U bolt can be properly inserted to fasten the assy on the steering column.

The long narrow spring goes inside the tube and is always pushing against a spot on the selector tongue which is pinned to the rod that extends thru the tube. It keeps the selector tongue pushed inside the upper 2-3 lever and provides the tension felt when pulling back the operator lever to move the tongue into the lower lever for the R or 1 shift. The bottom cotter key on the tube keeps that spring in the tube. There may be a small metal disc between the cotter key and spring to act as a lower end spring seat.

Our vendors may have new springs or if not, it should still be able to be found used. If you cannot find another the tension and length on that one could be restored by making or finding another small metal disc that will fit inside the tube and placing it between the broken pieces. Each broken end can then push on the disc.

The small hole in the tube near the upper lever gets a few drops of oil on occasion. The upper 2-3 lever issue looks the same on both so I suspect it also has gotten very little routine oiling. On Clippers water and dirt can condense and run down the tube working in behind the lever to rust or corrode and seize the lever to the tube. An occasional few drops of oil placed between the top of the upper lever and washer so it can run down and get in the space between the lever and tube can save some later grief.

Yes, the pointer and vibration damper index markings are observed from the driver's side of the motor. If you can't find any marks on the damper, perhaps they are concealed by a buildup of paint or rust. Try a good cleaning and look again. The photo above looking down on the marks and pointer is an accurate presentation.

The 1933-36 Eight/Super Eight parts list is available as a hardcopy reprint from the Packard Club and also available digitally on this site in the Literature Archive.

And done. Also, installed carpet.

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If I am interpreting the picture correctly, I'm looking in from the left side. Is that correct? If so, I do not have said bracket, nor for that matter do I see the timing marks on what I assume is the vibration damper. Also, is the 1933-1936 parts list a document that is available somewhere?