Cadmium plated.

The silver Cadmium paint for Eastwood work great to spiffy up old fasteners and also the hood hinges. Except for the springs which are black.

For comparison, this is what was left of the old one.

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Thank you, gentlemen. I had a chance to drive cross country in 2000, and the concept of distance changed for me and because very relative.


Looks like each of them know what they're up to. That's what I'm looking for.


I now know more than I did this morning.

If you are referring to the screws that hold the upper splasher, photos in the archive (unknown if the cars are original or restored) would seem to indicate at least on some cars the screws were natural.

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These two bolts connecting the front fenders to the radiator support....are they supposed to be body color or silver?

-Kevin

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New drip pan bent up. I still need to weld up the corners and then transfer all the other pieces over from the the old pan.

I'll use some seam sealer around all the joints and hardware.

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On the taillights... I know the screws for that are oval head sheet metal screws. I'm sure speed clips would go there as others suggested.

I got the GM headlight switch wired and installed today. It was wired differently from Howard's instructions. He had a Packard harness and I am using a Painless harness.

The hardest part was that stupid threaded piece that fits over the shaft and screws to the bezel. I missed that little detail in Howard's instructions with the thread size for that part, 7/16-28 (extra fine). If you mess up those threads you will NOT find a bolt to make a replacement for it.

The good news is that it works. I got the dash lights on again, even the clock.
The universal switch that I had was not going to manage the dome lights but this gm switch will.

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It looks like clean fluid would be an absolute must.

What I have is a '37 120. Same suspension, I think, but frame width might differ.