Jerome, The gasket I used came from Kanter and is about .020 +or- so I don't think that's a factor. I understand using a vacuum gauge to test the incoming pressure but confused on how to use one on the line to the carb as that is pressure not vacuum. I do not have a vacuum pump so thats out. I'll see if I can rig up the vacuum guage to the rubber inlet hose directly to see what the pump pulls without the line in the equation. Getting way too complicated. Dan

According to model info listing on this site, original size is 7.60 x 15. 7.00 x 15 is an earlier size system and is larger (heavier capacity ) than 7.60. Modern tires such as 235x15 are not suitable replacement tires. Best to go with original size.

James From
Kanter Auto Products

Well, three things:

1) atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi. That's the most the pump can "pull" if the entire system was beyond perfect, but in the real world it cannot even do that. See what comes out at 10 psi, because the pump won't be able to pull a super-strong vacuum, and 10 psi is probably about what it can effectively pull. That might help determine if there is an obstruction. If you can simply use a vacuum pump or vacuum gage on the line itself, that would be a good test.

2) You could simply plug the pump into a vaccuum gage (instead of the bucket) and see what it's doing. That would tell you whether there is a seal or check-valve in the pump that is bad. Could be you sucked up some crap into one of the check valves and it isn't working effectively. One reason I have one of those cheapy see-through in-line fuel filters before the pump, though I know everyone hates those.

3) The starter doesn't crank the engine very fast, but still, could be a bad pump.

4) I know you were putting the pump on where it hadn't been installed in a long time. If for some reason you installed the pump "too far away", e.g. with too thick a gasket or a plate or something else, the effective stroke of the pump will be reduced, and therefore it's effective pumping power. It should still be able to pull a vacuum but it won't be able to pump very much fluid volume, and it will take a long time to pump up to it's maximum vacuum.

RH, I can blow air into the tank with 20# pressure and if I put air to the tank filler, gas will come out of the line at the fuel pump. I can hold air in the line for a while and no leaks in the line anywhere. No obstruction I can find. I used 2'of clear plastic tubing from the carb line to the jug. It took probably 15 seconds just to fill the tubing. Maybe just a bad pump?

So, you press down on the gas pedal to activate the starter like normal, but nothing happens except you "lose all power"--uh, for good, or when you let off the gas does the power come back?

I had something like that on my 53 when the starter drive was bad. I'd press the gas to start sometimes and other than hearing the solenoid make its very little click nothing would happen. What fooled me at first was that the power draw was so high since the starter was actually jammed that the idiot lights would go out. That made me think the battery had suddenly failed but in actual fact the bad teeth on the starter drive were jamming in the flywheel.

For a quick test loosen the starter bolts a few turns and give it a good shake. tighten up and retry. Or, bench test it.

A normal fuel pump with throw 6 plus feet.

That fuel pump should pump like now.

Something is blocked.

Hi Guys, I have been working on this problem for months now and getting frustrated. 1951 Packard 200 Deluxe Ultramatic. Car behaves perfectly until it gets completely warmed up. If I take it downtown, chances are I will be limping the car home or towed (once).
Fuel tank is clean, fuel line is good, rubber fuel line is new, fuel pump rebuilt from Kanter and carb rebuilt. In the shop the glass filter bowl stays full until the car warms up and then the fuel level drops. The fuel will spurt into the bowl for a few seconds and then stop completely, then spurt again. Sometimes it runs out of fuel completely. Gas cap on or off makes no difference. I ran the fuel line into a plastic jug and got around 2/3 cup just cranking the starter for 30 seconds. Is this enough?
Any help will be greatly appreciated I am completely at a loss. Dan

Car would be a great stable mate to your 1939 110 .

A few ideas here:

First, on the acceleration issue, I strongly suspect that you have a bad accelerator pump. I'm assuming you have not yet rebuilt the carburetor? The accelerator pump will probably be attached to the throttle lever somehow. Example on a carburetor for the 55-56 cars below, though yours will be much different. You can get rebuild kits almost anywhere, also check the Parts Cross-Reference on the sidebar.

For the no-start, try turning the engine over a fraction by hand first then try again. It's pretty unlikely but if you have a tooth gone from the flywheel then it won't engage. If not that, then I would assume it must be a solenoid issue. Did you get a 6V, positive ground compatible solenoid?

You said it shorts out when you try to start it? Did you double-check the electrical connections? Negative wire to starter, positive terminal to ground strap.

Is this what you need? The terminal numbers are stamped on the case near each terminal but if solenoid is dirty may be hard to see. View is looking toward the OD from the driveshaft end.

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