I’m all for the Packard V8, it was an idea that came up from Flack when I was looking into the convertible coupe he had at one point in storage. I’d really like to see that.

Well, shucks. The Jag engine is kind of what makes this car so exotic. It looks so "right" under the hood, whereas any V-8 (whether Packard or otherwise) will not look right no matter what. I understand the cost of fixing it, though.

I know that at one point, Ross and I were spit-balling about a V8 over the phone. The biggest concern for clearance would be the steering column. More than likely, some U-joints or offset mechanism would be required.

Guess in your case the question would be what is cheaper -- fix or rebuild the Jag engine where engineering is already done but on an engine which can turn into a very expensive project or start from scratch with the Packard engine to give you something to work on and make your own.

There is at least one other Packard V8 installed in a late 30s model. The fellow who rebuilt my 47 engine had a shop in one of the So Cal cities and did it I think for a customer in the area. Showed it at one of the PI meets in the late 80s but don't remember which transmission it had. The engine did fit although it was tight and heads were very close to the hood.. I think the V8 is a bit wider and maybe lower than the Jag engine and IIRC there was some kind of U joint setup in the steering shaft needed to clear something. . Think it also had AC stuffed in too so that might have been some of the reason things were so tight.

Done!

I sounds like you definitely have some driveability issues. A number of things could cause the symptoms you're having, and most are NOT difficult to diagnose and remedy. The engine should behave well under all conditions, and it should have adequate power for all normal driving situations, with some to spare. Job One is to determine the CAUSE of the problem(s). The problem could be as simple as a frayed wire, or a leaking vacuum hose, or a bad coil or plug wire(s). A problem with the distributor rotor, for instance, could produce all the symptoms you describe. Diagnosis comes first.

Just so you know, the exact same thing happened to me with my 1953 327ci that is in my 1937 120. It was on a trip home that she started to boil, I did the same thing and took off the rad cap as it was 'unpressurized' and experienced 'old faithful', so much so it was hard to find the rad cap!
What I have found since is it acted like a wonderful cleansing sneeze. You see mine had sat for decades and the water jacket had become a mouse condo. Extensive cleaning was done but there was still rust and some residue after she actually was breaking in. That explosive session has had no repeat. The new coolant has shown to be clear and the operating temperature fluctuates within a range of 185-195 degrees F, warming up in traffic and dropping once under way so it may not be as dire as you think. The 'flush' may have already taken place with your geyser and the use of straight water and some more running will let you know next steps before you perform any drastic surgery.
Just my 2 cents
Bob J.

I used this method. Also, I will buy a 3/4-16 x 4" bolt, and a pile of 3/4" washers, on McMaster the next time I need to install a vibration damper, as I don't like to tap them on with a dead blow.

A little off topic now but I drew up the design in CAD and got the pieces plasma cut from 1/2" plate. Probably an overkill. I was expecting to have to hammer the bolt for impact, The pulley came right off with no effort at all.

Nah, I plan on keeping the floor shift.