Pipesarge, why not install a (Packard) 327 instead? Bolt in proposition, more power. While you're at it, get a four-barreled 327 from a 1953 or '54 donor. The 288 is a good mill, and will wind, but lacks even a two-barreled 327's oomph. Packard service departments made such changes, just as if you brought in a prewar 120 needing an engine, they'd replace the 282 with a 288.

While Olds, Cad, Chrysler, even Studebaker about to unveil or working on new ohv V-8s, a waning Packard addicted to fat War II defense contracts was more interested in more lucrative, less hassle govt. and jet engine business, so instead only offered a pair of revisions of their 1935 One Twenty engine. The 288 and 327 were excellent flathead straight eights for the benefit of today's hobbyists, if diminishing Packard's stature in their day. Take advantage of that situation.

It is a 3/8-24 bolt, about 1 1/2 long if I recall.

Take a 3/8 diameter punch, stick it into the heavy washer and use it as a lever to flip that washer out of its recess. Then you will need a 2 or 3 armed puller to pull the flange off. Screw your nice new 3/8 bolt into the shaft to keep the threads from being damaged as you horse the thing off.

You will discover that the original seal will have a death grip on the housing, and you may need to heat the end of the housing with a small torch to get it out.

Normally I remove the entire tailshaft assy and do the job on the bench as the frame is way too much in the way.

Re: coolant eak: Try tightening the water pump packing nut about 1/2 turn. Also look for leaks around water pump bolt heads. A radiator core leak will usually cause liquid to accumulate in the air passages in the core. Sometimes, when the engine is started, the fan draft will cause some accumulated coolant to be pulled into the fan and spread around. I'd look real carefully at the water pump and radiator chose connections before condemning the radiator. Be sure the overflow pipe isn't leaking where it exits the top radiator tank.
Your fuel problem is puzzling. The tiniest air leak between the fuel pump and the fuel tank can mimic vapor lock. Any fuel supply issue usually gets worse at higher temperatures.

Very cool. If you want your own:

https://patents.google.com/patent/USD114358

Hi,
The rear end of my transmission on my 56 Patrician is dripping ATF. I got a pinion seal, and removed the drive shaft. To my surprise, it seems that my universal joint flange bolt is completely missing. So now I have two questions.

1) What size bolt do I need?
2) How do I separate the flange from the rest of the transmission, so that I can install the new pinion seal?

Thanks!

John

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My wife was out shopping and found this print. In the bottom left corner it references:
Inventor- John D Wilson
By Libbetto & Hart Attorneys

Kudos to my wife for a good eye.

Added the insulated sleeve, even doubled it up….unfortunately, no change to the issue.




On top of that, I seem to have another coolant leak, but I can’t see where it’s coming from. I don’t believe it is coming from the water pump, Previously, there was no doubt that I had a leak around the shaft. That seems to be good now that I re-packed it, but I can’t find the new leak. Looks like I’ll need to get the radiator to someone for repair.

Quote:

More power to him and if he is still around may he be around longer to take advantage of all of his contract. I don't expect to still be driving long enough to use all of mine but it is one time transferrable so if one of my relatives winds up with a not too old car they can at least enjoy the remainder.

That was an urban legend that was proven false many years ago.

btw, If I remember my Dad's research 50 years ago, I think the business genius who drove Packard into the ground, Nance, sold the old year Packard body dies to the GAZ management for the Chaika as part of an Eisenhower "lets make nice" with the Soviets to show good will and throw some water on the Cold War tensions...look closely...