Sounds like you are close enough to phoenix we may wind up at a show or tour sometime. There is a local club, Packards of Arizona I joined the other day. I haven't had a chance to do much with them since I discovered my #8 rod treat, but they seem like great guys. As for treddle vac, I had a power brake company on Grand Ave. (Out of business)rebuild the one I had in a 58 Edsel wagon and never had any trouble. I will PM you contact info in case some local events are going on.

To 39super8

I'm about 55-60 miles south of you. Just south of Casa Grande in Arizona City.


Thanks to everyone that responded concerning the T/V, and the info. As I have the wheel cylinders to do next, and a few other things, I will most likely be here daily. :)

Boro -

I've never had a big problem with the TreadleVac unit, myself, and concur with Owen_Dyneto's position that they were used successfully for many years and on many cars.

The NUMBER ONE thing to look out for on these decades-old units (especially from cars that sat, unused, for extended periods) is a pitted hydraulic plunger. Because the seals are held in a fixed position, and the plunger moves through them, a pitted surface will act like a cheese-grater and cause a failure of the seals in short order. A hydraulic failure in ANY single-chambered master cylinder could be catastrophic, but such an event unlikely in a brake system that has been properly gone-through and is properly serviced.

One thing I feel that has often been overlooked in rebuilding these units is the compensator port valve spring. That valve is CRITICAL to hydraulic operation, but the spring is not included in the "minor kit" - not even in an original from Bendix. I have seen this delicate spring corroded in two in a couple of units that I disassembled - cars that hadn't been used in decades. I suspect this happens, over time, because DOT3 is hygroscopic (draws moisture right out of the air) and the reservoir is NOT air-tight (like more modern designs).

I think the "hot" cable tells you all you need to know in terms of a diagnosis. And don't forget a clean ground with sufficient area to it.

I appreciate your plight on those rod bearings; 25 or 30 years ago they were VERY hard to find. So hard in fact that some folks bought earlier (babbitt) rods to keep their their later engines in service. I'd think by now finding one or more would be nearly impossible. Yet I keep hearing rumors that one of the major national Packard vendors is considering having some made overseas. Let's hope that happens and that the quality is better than some of the reproduced parts now available.

I am in Arizona (Phoenix) also. Have not done much yet, looking for a .030" under con. rod bearing for my 39 super 8. no one seems to be able to sell me a bearing, used, new, used rod and bearing or whatever. Some good guys are trying, so I will be patient. Once finished, I would like to do some tours and shows with other Packard owners here in Phoenix. Pics of the car are posted on the owner registry. it is black.

"wirez is wirez"? I agree, totally untrue. We are buying a braided cable tomorrow. I noticed tonight that while we were cranking it over, the ground wire got extremely hot, and when i touched the battery terminal, it almost burnt my hand. I checked the fuel, it smelled a bit like turpentine, so we went ahead and flushed the filter and carb, and put fresh gas in it. this seemed to help the firing. It almost caught a few times, but it's just not there yet.

Quote:
"If after satisfying the needs on proper cables and clean connections the car still cranks slowly with a good battery, I'd pull the starter motor for a checkover."

The starter has been rebuilt within the past year and has been tested time and time again with no issues.

We are getting a 1000 cranking amp battery and a braided cable tomorrow, we'll see how everything pans out from there.

Owen Dyneto--the reason I espouse the braided cable is not for the sake of authenticity, but for the superior current carring ability that a braided ground offers over most round cables. You would need double or triple "ot" fine-wire round cable to come close to handling the current that a braided cable offers. I've seen ot, double, triple ot welding wire used, and that's fine, but the braided cables were used by Packard (and many others) are not some obscure thing you have to pay botique prices for, nor are they hard to find. I've had this very discussion over on the AACA website, and there is a "wirez is wirez" attitude some folks have. I've seen the difference on more than one 6V vehicle.

Not to flog this subject unnecessarily, and of course a braided cable from a view towards authenticity is nice, but your battery is beneath the seat and the cable isn't visible anyway; much more important are current-carrying capacity (0 gauge or better) of the cables and a very clean ground connection. If after satisfying the needs on proper cables and clean connections the car still cranks slowly with a good battery, I'd pull the starter motor for a checkover.

I too have a rebuilt treadle-vac and it works fine. I think the kits from max or Kanter are only for the hydraulic side of the T/V. If you need to rebuild the vacuum side then you must buy another kit. Double-check me on that. I had mine rebuilt by Ed Strain who advertises in HMN. It was $215.00 which included the shipping back to me.
Welcome to this Packard forum and your car is gorgeous.
The PAC club and Packards International both have websites you will want to examine.
There is also this website which has an active Packard section.
http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php?Cat=0

All Packard owners are pretty good people and most are willing to help out a newbie so don't be afraid to ask.