V-I-C-T-O-R-Y!!!!!!!! That was for sure a test of my patience. I thought I was going crazy a couple of times with that one.

OK, so it was a reversal of wires. I spoke with Gene at YnZ and talk to him about the IGN over the right bolt. He said yes, that indicates that is where the #6 wire goes (from the ignition) and the sending unit goes to the other. His instructions did say the reverse, but as he said that was not the first time they were incorrect.

So. 2 things left before she comes off the blocks.

1. Finish up gluing down the weather striping on the convertible top.
2. Front left turn signal needs a new wire, as the original had a cold solder.

Cheers
Ben

After applying the epoxy primer, the problem that I had previously described became clear in one place... sanding the rims instead of sandblasting or dipping them. In the area of the recess of the air valve, the layers of paint were difficult to sand down by hand. So I sandblasted this small part in my sandblasting cabin. It was now clearly visible how deep the rust scars were in the visible external surface. Filling this with spray filler and then sanding everything down again to achieve a smooth surface and prevent the paint layer from building up too thick would have required countless additional hours.

Karl

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After the final grinding the problem was solved.

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While grinding the replacement rim, it was discovered that the edge of the rim was so damaged in one place that only a weld repair was the correct solution to correct this problem.
I cleaned this area with a cup wire brush on an angle grinder...

... underlaid with a 2 mm thick copper sheet to fill the rust spots and holes without burning through to the area of the snap ring holder. Then fill this area step by step with Weldingpoint by Weldingpoint. After an initial intermediate grinding, this defect could then be completely remedied through further welding work.

Karl

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The oil filler cap only goes on the tube one way and the opening in it should face the front of the car.
The slot at the top of the tube should faca away from the block.

Typically the overdrive cars also had a different rear axel ratio which provides faster starts from a full stop and more power at lower speeds. The non-OD ratio was something of a compromise so best to change the rear end too.

For the easiest and quickest install a complete transmission with R11 overdrive from a 48-50 junior model. The overdrive is integral with the transmission and can't just be bolted on to your existing trans so you need the complete assy. Junior models (288/327 engine) are needed because 47 and earlier 356 engine trans/ODs have some different heavier parts that would need to change to fit the smaller engines and I believe the same was true for the first of the 48 356s and maybe all of them. You want the R11 OD which was introduced in mid 48 instead of the earlier R9 because it is a much simpler unit both mechanically and electrically and parts are easier to find.

A parts car would be nice because you could see how everything mounts and there are some small pieces you could grab but most of those can be worked around. Once you have the transmission/OD, for a complete factory type install you will need the lockout cable assy and all the electrical components. If you cannot find a parts car or a complete removed system most electrical for the R11 except the governor and lockout cable and switch is in repro although some of the pieces are a bit expensive. Modern components will also work for some of the original electrical items. Some changes to the driveshaft and speedo drive cable will be needed and some of the rear mount or stabilizer pieces are different.

Here are a couple of photos from parts manual. The flange on the cover goes down and the tube points to the rear.

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I continue to lubricate the joints on my '34 Eight with heavy gear oil but I expect a grease would also give a satisfactory result as long as the grease wasn't allowed to harden and plug one or more of the passages to the needles. Heavy oil is probably the safer choice and it was Packard's recommendation.

Note that replacement joints generally had an alemite fitting, the OEM joints did not.

Again, too old. The two valve train covers have the half circle, or fingers attached to the cover. I think the fingers go down, or toward the bottom of the engine. Also which way does the oil filler neck bottom opening face? Toward the center, the crank, or toward the outside of block? Thanks from too old and senile. Just ask my wife!

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