Right Don, I only applied my might to the rotational ends of the drive bar thingy. I was only swinging the hammer up and down, no side-to-side hammering. When I re-assemble everything I will have to check the side to side end-play and shim accordingly. I wasn't planning on doing anything with the preload on the differential.

Does anyone have a picture of a how a 53 Cavalier trunk was finished at the factory?

I believe the inside of the fenders and wheel tubs were flocked.

The parts book list right, left & center "Insulation-Trunk compartment floor" and right & left "Lining-Trunk compartment floor", but I don't know what these look like.

I have the original "vinyl" mats that go on the flat areas on the left and right of the spare. Was there another mat, or carpet, that went on top of this, or maybe this went on top of something else?

Also I'm not sure what went on the hump over the rear axle??

Did the trunk have carpet at all?

Did anything go on the bulkhead, or did just the wood show?

Let me know what you know! TIA

Hey gang. Not really a major issue here, but would love to trouble shoot. The car is a 1950 Super Deluxe Eight, 327, Ultra, Carter 643s carb (rebuilt a couple years ago), mechanical pump pumping around 3.75 psi at idle, float height verified 3/16" per the Daytona instructions, distributor recently rebuilt...

Compression on this engine is lower - around 85 psi front to back. Head gasket replaced recently, valves lapped, lifters cleaned, but original valve guides and pistons/rings.

The car generally does everything it's supposed to it. It runs smoothly throughout the powerband, idles well, runs maybe slightly warmer than center on the gauge, 40 psi for oil at cruising speeds; around 10 at idle.

But, in the two years I've owned the car, I've never tried to wide open throttle the car from a dead stop. I've eased into it before, get sort of a running start, which has always yielded mixed results (although tonight it worked beautifully). Timing is around 10° (this was the advice from Advace Distributors, who rebuilt my IGP).

But from a dead stop, nothing to WOT, the car basically dies. No bogging, no delay, iust... total knock out. I take my foot off the pedal, it comes back, and I can continue. I typically ease into the accelerator and go about always down, which is about good to keep up with the traffic my neck of the woods.

I know she isn't a race car, and I most definitely don't want or need it to be. But I'm mainly curious here (because I was surlrised) - should it respond in some meaningful way from idle to WOT? Or is that just generally something you don't do with these cars. Like I said, it's 74 years old, but I figure it's better when all the systems in the car are working the way they're supposed (assuming this isn't normal). Thanks, all!

There will either be an adjustment screw or you bend the tang. Are you sure you bought a compatible regulator? Typically it will be adjusted pretty well out of the box.

Its been a while since I last posted due to life getting in the way. I am getting back to working on my 52' 300 trying to get it ready to enjoy this summer.

It all started when I had issues with the accelerator pump in the carb not working and not allowing me to accelerate. So I ordered a rebuild kit from Max Merritt and rebuilt the carb. Got everything put back together and got the car fired up with using the base fuel screw settings of 2 turns out. It was idling higher than I would have liked, so using a dwell/ tach meter, I am able to watch the RPM and dwell with the car running. Currently the Dwell is set to 24 degrees which is within the spec of 21-30 degrees according to the service manuals. These measurements are taken with the Vac Adv disconnected at the carb and the carb plugged off. I cannot get the idle down to the factory spec of 450-500 rpm without the car dying. Currently its idling around 750-800 RPM with the Vac Adv connected, but has an audible miss at idle. It smooths out when given throttle.

I thought that the timing may be off since it won't idle at the correct RPM. After checking the timing with a timing light and Vac Adv disconnected. It is right on at 6 degrees BTDC which I believe to be within spec. When I check the timing with the Vac Adv connected, the timing jumps up to 16-17 degrees BTDC and continues to advance further when RPM's are increased. It has the Delco distributor if that matters.

My questions to the experts:
1. Is the timing supposed to be set to 6 degrees with the Vac Adv connected?
2. Is my advance of 16-17 degrees with the Vac Adv connected seem reasonable. Is this due to the RPM's being elevated above the normal spec of 450-500 RPM?
3. I assume if I can get the RPM to 450-500 then there shouldn't be any timing advancement from the Vac Adv? If its still advancing at 450-500 RPM is there any adjustment to the vacuum canister to reduce the advancement or does it need rebuilt?
4. Any other suggestions or areas to look at?

thank you for any insight or help you all can provide.

How do I adjust regulator if needed.. it is brand new and specefic to the generator?

Yes, the parts book specifically calls out part 433248 which is a 5/8" x 7/8" copper washer. No need for Teflon tape.

Pretty sure Harbor Freight sells these, even.

Ok thank you .. I will do all the tests in am and report back! Appreciate all the info

YnZ’s Yesterdays Parts offers a beautiful reproduction of the A/C harness which also seems reasonably priced although I got mine a few years back. They actually had it in stock! They also had the power windows/door locks harness in stock with the rubber tubes through the door jambs and even includes reproductions of the switch connectors so no need to use your old ones.

The actual Packard drawing number for the A/C wiring is 1-1363 named "MISC". You can obtain a copy of this from the Studebaker Museum in care of Andrew Beckman. Email address is: archives@studebakermuseum.org. There will be a nominal fee for it, but it is an original Packard wiring print.