Bingo! There was another Packard dealer in Adelaide. I have successfully updated the Dealership List .

Attach file:

---

  1953-01-10 The News.jpg (41.37 KB)


  1953-01-10 Dominion Motors Ltd Adelaide.jpg (62.14 KB)

The vacuum advance is working. Can you please explain what you mean by "mechanical advance"? Thanks.

I am based in CA actually. Where can I find when and where the part swap meets are? I would love to go and check them out. The part hunting makes it a lot more fun and rewarding. Thanks for the pointers.

I would check the distributor to see that the mechanical and vacuum advances are working.

Good Morning...The really old school approach is to open the distributor and remove the rotor and put it in your pocket. In the Army, in Heidelberg, in 1969, a friend of mind was picked up by the Military Police and when they found the rotor for a military Jeep, in his pocket, they thought he was a thief...until he took them to the Jeep assigned to him! Ernie in Arizona

Quote:

Attach file:

---

  20231007_152747761_iOS-Transmission 1.jpg (252.85 KB)


  20231007_152714411_iOS- Transmission 2.jpg (338.02 KB)


  20231007_152714411_iOS- Transmission 3.jpg (387.59 KB)


  20231007_152821383_iOS- Transmission 4.jpg (439.55 KB)


  20231007_152905217_iOS- Transmission 5.jpg (466.59 KB)

Here are more pics, especially around the unusual transmission.
Can somebody confirm how much of the drivetrain appears to be Packard?

FWIW -

I pulled the plugs for 1 and 5 and put Marvel Mystery oil in those.

The other plugs were hard to get at with the tools I had, or seemed tight so I left them alone.
We'll leave engine assessment & restoration to the buyer.

Attach file:

---

  20231007_195425348_iOS- Engine Drivers Side 5.jpg (410.19 KB)


  20231007_195533279_iOS-Engine Drivers Side 3.jpg (436.74 KB)


  20231007_195525822_iOS- Engine Drivers Side 4.jpg (417.16 KB)


  20231007_195439365_iOS- Engine Passenger Side 4.jpg (387.84 KB)


  20231007_195453846_iOS- Engine Passenger Side 2.jpg (407.82 KB)


  20231007_153435424_iOS- Engine Passenger Side 3.jpg (388.51 KB)

Most remote battery kill switches are just a continuously rated relay, some wiring, an inline fuse and a small toggle switch.

If you find a 6v normally off relay that is continuously rated at or above your starter relay amps, then that would work just as well. The wiring is fairly simple.

Poor man's car cover to protect the interior from dust until I get a top on the car. An old king bedsheet and a couple of magnets.

Also I put the cover on the '54.

Attach file:

---

  Screenshot_20231014_112136_Gallery.jpg (124.72 KB)

Hi. I recently have starting working on getting my 1951 200 running after sitting for 5 years. I quit running it because the fuel pump went out on it and other things took priority and I didn't get back to it. Recently, I decided to try getting it running again. I put a 6v electric fuel pump on it inline near the fuel tank just to try to get it started. I did get it running and it sounds good and idles good. However, when trying to throttle it up it "bogs down" for lack of a better description. I took the carb off, took it apart and cleaned everything, but no improvement. The carb had a fresh rebuild using a max merritt kit shortly before I quit driving it. At that time it was running great. The points are set correctly, the timing is set correctly. I tried spraying a little starting fluid into the carb when it is bogging down to see if it made any difference. It didn't. That makes me think its getting too much fuel? I don't claim to be a mechanic or know everything about these cars so I was hoping someone could just maybe point me in right direction of things to check. Any info would be much appreciated. thanks!