Hello Howard! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and suggestions. The solenoid on the Autolite starter I bought from Merritt is the small 3 terminal type. I ended up ordering one from them, but since this one didn’t last very long, was hoping to find something a little more affordable (if possible in the Packard universe) for possible future failures.

Hello Don! Thanks for your suggestion of Tucson Packard. The solenoid they show appears to me to be for the Delco starter. I opted to change out the Delco starter for Autolite due to issues with the Delco being unable to spin the engine when it was hot.

Regards,

Mark

Good afternoon!

Dropped the 54 Convertible at a shop near me to get carburetor adjusted last night. They called me this morning to tell me the car would not start/wouldn’t do anything. They asked if it had a kill switch which it does not. So, I drove to the shop to see for myself what’s going on as it started just fine when I took it to them. Sure enough, when I got there and tried it myself - nothing. We checked voltage out of the battery (6.5Vs), checked connections to starter solenoid (one a bit loose, so tightened), checked voltage across solenoid and found the 6.5V in, but only about half that out. Decided the solenoid is toast.

So, have been looking for a replacement. I’ve looked everywhere trying to find a P/N hoping to be able to find one through someone. Have calls in to Merritt and Kanter’s and Brillman’s. Any other suggestions? Does anyone know of a compatible off-the-shelf replacement? Any input is always appreciated!

Thanks

Good afternoon:

I procured a new bearing and collar combination from Merritt, but as FYI, it is NOT the same bearing as the original 1686-1 bearing. The new bearing itself is thicker and the collar has been modified to accommodate the new bearing ID dimension.

AND, head’s up to anyone that might be buying one from Merritt’s in the near future. The collar on the item I received has a missing hole on one of the tabs to which you attach one of the springs. Apparently an oversight on the part of their supplier. I’m going to chat with them tomorrow so they can check their stock.

FINALLY, what is the consensus of the group on whether there should be 1 or 2 springs (1 on each of the 2 tabs) attached to the collar and transmission housing. The parts manual indicates only 1 spring per car not 2? Why 2 tabs with only 1 spring?

Howard: Thanks much for the info/clarification!

BigKev: Sorry for the duplicate entry! Website said I’d timed out when I submitted, so I submitted again thinking only one had gone through!

Good evening Mike,

In searching the site for info, I found your post regarding a throw-out bearing. I’m in need of one for my ‘54 convertible and I’m told it is a 1686-1, but I am unable to locate one. I’ve also seen they are no longer made/available! Would you mind advising where you found yours? I plan on calling Merritt and Kanter tomorrow, but I’m assuming you did not go to them?!

Thanks for your help!1

Mark

1954 Convertible w/ 3-speed + OD (I do not know which “R” version it is.)

During the removal of the engine and transmission for overhaul, I was not present for pics to be taken of the wiring connections on the overdrive unit itself, therefore, I have some questions. There is no issue with which wires connect to the solenoid.

1. The wire schematic shows only one wire from the governor, but there are 2 wires. What does one do with the extra wire and which wire is connected to the lock-out switch? The wires on the governor are the same color. One is not yellow as alluded to on the wire diagram.

2. Once determined which wire is used, does it matter which terminal on the lock-out switch the governor wire is connected?

3. Does it matter which terminal wire #44 is connected on the lock-out switch. I cannot see any ref. designators on the switch.

Thanks for your input!

Thanks to all for your wisdom and suggestions!

I’m thinking the ‘solution’ will be a combination of 2 or 3 of your suggestions!

Cheers!

Good evening!

I’m wondering what type of anti-theft device(s) anyone has installed or recommends for their post-war, 3-on-the-tree, power brake-equipped, 6-volt electrical system vehicles!?

Thanks for your input!

Thank you for your reply, Ross!

The brass disty tube is in place, but I did not see its condition.

We did just run a hose between the two heater ports (water pump and head). Will clamp it off in the middle.

The radiator is probably smaller than the newly cored radiator but about as thick and has an electric fan attached to it that we are running off a 12V battery. We considered that might be a contributor to the heat, but got concerned when we were seeing 210+ with the digital thermometer.

We’ll try a couple more cycles with retorquing, the thermometer in the neck of the radiator and the GM stop leak pellets.

Thanks again!

Thanks for your reply Don. I cannot answer your question regarding condition of the diary tube, but I know that it is installed in the block as I asked what it was for during water pump installation.

Mark