You have to remove the clutch and flywheel first. This gets you access to the inside of the bellhousing where there are (I think) six bolts holding it to the engine block.

I have one engine in storage with the housing and clutch system still on the engine. I can't figure out how to remove the clutch fork! I did it years ago on my other engine. ...but I can't remember how!!!

Good luck!
Mark

Hi,

I have a problem in my fuse block. One of the saddles for the glass cylindrical fuses has an ear broken off. The previous owner had rigged something up with a bit of aluminum foil, to pin the fuse in. I'm trying to come up with something a little better.

I assume that years ago, they probably made a "fix" for something like this. But I realize that if there was a fix or kit, those are long obsolete.

This isn't on a Packard, but on my '69 Galaxy. My "future" fix is to swap the fuseblock from my parts car into this car. But that's when I get to stripping the car down. ...hopefully next year.

Any suggestions would be helpful. I can take a pic if necessary.

Thanks,

Mark

Thanks!

...am I also remembering correctly? If i take a grinder (i have spare pieces of trim)...stainless gives a dull red spark and aluminum gives off no spark?

Hi,

Question to the knowledgebase here. How can I tell the difference between stainless steel and aluminum? I'm trying to determine what I can just polish and what I need to take in for re anodizing.

This is actually for my ford project, but I figure that it is applicable to Packards too.

Thanks,

Mark

Yes, to be clearer, I am looking to give it some strength back.

I did think about the lead further and figured that with the amount that I would use, I would be melting the stuff that I just put on, as I go.

I'm not sure that it could withstand the heat of brazing either.

I did think about JB weld. I think that I have some of that around. ...somewhere.

My fallback would be rusty metal primer and Rusto over that.

Hi,

I have a general resto question... This is for a disc brake backing plate. ...so think 20-22 guauge sheet metal. The plates were in the junk yard and have rusted thin. ...rusted thru in some areas, and pin holes in others. I can't get replacements. I am bout to bead blast them. ...hopefully there is enough good metal left for that!

So I figure that my options are leading, lab metal and/or possibly soldering. I plan to prime and paint them afterwards. Any thoughts or suggestions?

There is too much contour to completely re-fab replacements.

Thanks,

Mark

Yes, for the usual parts, I will use Rock, Summit and the usual Packard parts suppliers.

The item that I was looking for was a rare trim piece for my '69 Galaxie. So it was/is a used (actually NOS) piece.

Thanks!

Mark

I was looking for a part for my non-Packard and found it in/at www.2040-parts.com Is anyone familiar with this site? Is it a marketplace, like an ebay? As best as I can tell it is. But it has a horrid search function.

Thanks,

Mark

I have a California car cover. It's an outdoor cover. They had great service and great support. I did have some stitching come off of an elastic part. ...and since it was still under warranty (3 or 5 years I think) they sent me a whole new cover.

They had mine in stock. (for a '69 Galaxie) but they do make custom covers also.

Good luck,

Mark

Hi,

I figured that I would ask this here as the other (non-Packard) forums that I am a member of, just get ridiculous. ...and people are just smarter here.

I stripped out threads on a front wheel spindle. They are the threads for the caliper slider bolts. (only one of the two bolt holes stripped out. This is for a '97 Dodge Dakota. The brakes on this vehicle are a little strange and basically too small. I say this because for as long as I have had the vehicle (since new) the brakes ALWAYS wear unevenly. Meaning a single pad may wear more on one end then the other. Which to me means the caliper is twisting. This has even occurred with new calipers with new slider bolts and rubber bushings on them.

That all being said, would you trust a heli-coil in this application? I haven't installed one before. I have tapped new threads many times before tho. I planned on "practicing" on another piece of cast iron before installing the final one.

Any advice is welcome.

Thanks,

Mark

P.S. The bolt thread is 9mm x 1.25. To show how small they are.