My '55 Clipper Super with 78K miles has been running great, with new oil pump and various corrosion issues cleaned up.

In the last two months it's begun stalling unpredictably while driving. Previous owner installed an electric fuel pump which has worked well, and when it's stalled I've found I can start the car by turning on the pump for 10 seconds before turning the key to Start.

I thought air might be getting into the fuel line somehow, after the fuel pump but before the carburetor. But it could be contamination in the fuel line, or tank.

Any suggestions appreciated.

1 minute under a hot hairdryer worked great for me too - and my '55 is ten years older than yours was!

Tip: when pulling up on the knob, grip on the left & right sides (serrations on on front & back of the rod)

Great - thanks Owen

You put each jack stand under the lower A-frame (under the spring) after you jack up the car on the other side?

Want to make sure I understand - it's a heavy car. Looks like previous owners have put jack stands in places where they've done damage -

I have a few things I want to work on while it's up on stands - transmission, brakes, etc. but nothing related to suspension.

Thanks Owen - that worked great.

Any suggestions about where to put the jack stands? I've got them where the bumper meets the frame, but the bumper brackets are chewing into the rubber top of the jack stands - not the end of the world, but they will probably need to be replaced.

Let me know if I'm missing something obvious - wouldn't be the first time

Trying to set up my Clipper on four jack stands in the driveway.

Using a floor jack under the differential case, I was able to get jack stands where the X-member meets the side members in the rear. In the front, will the "welded box type structure" connecting the two side members support the car? I don't see any other centered location to lift the car other than the bumper.

Excellent Howard, sounds like the first step.

Then I can figure out what should go under the carpet in terms of thickness/sound deadening. I like JW's idea of cementing carpet pad to the carpet.

Riki, I'm not familiar with rust converter -

1) What kind of prep is involved?

2) Any particular brand you recommend?

Thanks Howard, very helpful.

I think what will probably work best is a combination of LizardSkin (in hard to access areas), and pads elsewhere.

On the '55 Clipper Super I'm restoring, it looks like there was a textured OEM finish underneath the carpet pad intended to deaden sound. Because the car spent time outside without good weatherstripping, water has gotten underneath it and rusted the floor. The finish is coming off in large chips.

I'm scraping off anything that's loose, but am unsure where to go from there.

1) Best to grind it all off and prime it, or leave what's still protecting the base metal?

2) Respray sound deadener, or replace with Dynamat or something similar?

Thanks

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