Ross will do you a fine job if he is available.

Were up in Indiana as an option. Freight is about $110 to get it up here.

We have three Ultramatics up on the bench right now so we are about 2-3 weeks out including other jobs before we could get started. We have Ultramafic running on three Continents.

Ha, ha, no worries. Unfortunately it is a resto-mod so only fit, form, and function on this one, correctness went out the window. Recommendations given but he has got his own vision. Ill probably wind up snagging the wire rims, he is going to run aftermarket.

Yes, Unfortunately, for the customer, the engine has been replaced with a 327. He had someone else rebuild it before he brought it to us and already sunk in over 6k on the rebuild.

54 Caribbean loaded and on its way to find its body...

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Hammered? No way, same thing I say. I have cars come to the shop wanting hacked, and I turn them away. I Will NOT Hack a Pack. However, while not my choice either, I will as you stated "Modify" a car that is not realistically restorable to keep it from the heap. No Hammers here, much respect......

My Son Sponsored the Sims for tonight. Many real drivers race this sim series.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYnw7jlKyFA&feature=youtu.be

they are easy and very straight forward. the main thing is to make sure when removing the bearing caps it to do it on a clean bench with a white towel as their is a good chance you WILL disturb the needles. Even if you don't, you will when you go to re-install.

If the needles come loose, no problem, they are very easy to install upon reassembly, just don't loose any.

The biggest hassle we have which is really not a hassle is the trunion will have to be pressed out from the shaft ball after removing the bearing caps and then pressed back in after the boot has been changed.

Do not put the boot clamps on until you have the trunion back together and the end cover back in place. This is the easiest way.

On a bad day, should take you no more than 30 min. Just did one on a Caribbean and Clipper..

Yes, they will....

Having rebuild 5 of the pre-war engines 28-32, The valve clearance gets wider when the engine is hot. Everything in the engine expands with heat, so as the engine heats up the distance from the cam to the rockers increases.

The factory spec should be considered the minimum and there is no good reason to ever set them tighter, you could easily damage the engine.

Intake .0025 Cold and .004 Hot, Exhaust .004 Cold, .006 Hot.

It is important to insure your HOT adjustments are correct, a little time consuming, sometimes a pain in the butt, but important non the less.

Hey Muir,

Here is some food for thought.

I am just completing a 54 Caribbean Chassis for a client.

Just the chassis alone total teardown and restoration costs came in at $4,700 USD and labor was an additional 4k. This does not include the costs of the Engine and Transmission work which is another 8k.

Interior complete, hand sewn and pleated etc. Labor average 4k plus materials.

Paint and materials avg. $2500 (cost) with PPG and DuPont running $600 / Qt., Clear $485 / Gal

Bodywork and Labor if no major metal repair 4-6k

Chrome- 10k

Of course the this car is going to Barret-Jackson but if you are not doing a # 1-2 car and do the majority yourself, you can bring the cost down some.

Cheers

Makes me sick.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-Packard-Lincoln-Town-Car-Sign-LTD-Lots-of-trim-/272803014846?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368