The clamp in the picture looks different than the screw type hose clamp; however, I've made one to work.

Now, do I just disconnect the wires from the three-prong switch and wire them to the switch per the diagram or do I still need to buy a relay to be sure my T/L continues to work?

Thanks. What do you mean by a "regular screw type hose clamp"? Is this clamp what holds the switch in place or do I need to get a holder for the switch?

HH56, I'm interested in a parts list and schematic to convert to a GM mechanical stop light switch for my '56 with T/L. Will you post it? Thanks.

That line pressure switch you referenced is from a '74 VW Beetle with NAPA part# Echlin SL 159 or Auto Zone RB402 as a direct replacement for the 3-prong stop light switch.

Is the switch connected in parallel with the under dash T/L switch?

Craig, I also have the Gary Russell 2-prong brake switch on my T/L system, but some reason I've lost the wiring diagram as how I converted it from the 3-prong switch. Do you by chance have the wiring diagram?

Also, what do I need to do to install a manual override control switch?

Update, update, update. After checking everything everyone suggested for me to check and found that they were good, I decided to buy another stop light switch from O'Reilly (BWD S194 $6.99) just to see if the stop light switch was causing my problems. Although the one I was using was also new, for some reason it seems that it was my problem. It also might have been a combination of a bad stop light switch and a bad solenoid which I also replaced; either way my nose is off the ground and everything is working. I'm cruising once again.

Thanks to everyone who gave me ideas during these hair scratching times.

I'm using the regular Dot 4 brake fluid.

Yes I can push the back of the car down with my hands.

The only time the motors run is when I ground the small terminals on each of them, then the car will go up or down depending on which solenoid I ground.

Am I correct in saying that when there's voltage on both green wires on the under dash switch, that the T/L system is on? I presently have the switch out of the dash, but I have it grounded to the frame. So before I raise the car to look underneath, I'm hearing you say that I should only have voltage on one of the green wires before I raise it. Is that correct????

Any other ideas about why the brake lights are on?

Ok here we go. The new solenoid does have "BAT" stamped for the big terminal and I do have it connected to the buss bar. Everything ohms out just as you said it should. I even swapped the solenoids and put the new one on top and the old one on the bottom. I still have voltage on both small terminals. The nose still doesn't raise. I have voltage on one side of the under dash switch when it's in one position, but I also have voltage on both green wires when I flip the switch. My tail lights are still on.

I'm totally befuddled.

I got the solenoid from NAPA (ST56) as mentioned in one of the other threads. I'll uninstall it and do the ohms check. Thanks.