Does anyone have a reccomendation for a decent fitted car cover for my '41 180 touring sedan. It's a long term project at a repair shop so it's indoors, but dust & dirt build up faster than you think.
thanks

I think cortcomp has his labels reversed on the fuelpump side of the picture. The section with 2 ports pretty much has to be the pump outlet (is it even possible to install both check valves upside down?) I have seen some packard pumps with the outlet facing front, some with it rear.

You really want to install a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the pump & the carb. If you have 4-5 psi when it stalls/ no starts, the the mech pump probably won't help. (if you have low pressure, it could be the pump, it's power supply, a leak in the suction hose from pump to tank, or junk floating around in the tank that temporarily blocks the pickup tube.)

Carb float level might be too high, or carb might be over heating - check if the heat riser valve is stuck or flopping "closed".

(Your eng is REALLY purty!)

Isolate the carb from the vacuum tank. Connect a hose & funnel to the carb fuel inlet (cap the line to the vac tank)- hold / fill funnel to the same level as the "full" point on the vac tank - then check the carb for flooding problem statically (eng off). You can try this on a running eng BUT you have to be super careful not to spill gas.
(Ogg no like engine fires)
A thought, does the vac tank mount at the same height above the carb on both cars? Do both eng have the same amount of vac? Either the carb floods for some reason with the correct inlet "pressure" or the tank is somehow building pressure instaed of just gravity feeding (?)

Different wheel cylinder sizes SHOULD result in some brake pull, toward the side with the larger bore. Bendix style self-energizing brakes would be more sensitive to that then "duo-servo" brakes.
Having driven several front drum equipped cars over the years, it seemed that all of them had some wander or pull under heavy/severe application.
(Then there's the lose-brake-effect-because-you-drove-through-a-puddle thing, but that's another story)

The basic gist of it is that you pull the knob out (turn headlight switch to "on" position). The round bezel "nut" then has to be unscrewed & slid on the shaft toward the knob . The switch & knob shaft will be loose but still in place.The end of the shaft has a 90 degree hook pointed down, so you have wiggle the shaft (knob end down, hook end up) up & out to remove the switch.

All I can say is my '41 356 (electric wipers-single pump) has the shield as HH56 shows. Top bracket mounts to the front exhaust manifold stud, & lower bracket goes to rear fuel pump bolt.

Looks like there are 2 buildings... different walls, floor, windows, etc.

AHH! Lightbulb moment! They used used the relay (or contacts on '42) as a lockout. That prevented someone from energizing both the up & down relays at the same time.
Even with a decent diagram it can be tough figuring out what a circuit is suposed to do (alot of the wires on this window system look to be the same color by now).
A system description, and a little experience really help!

While I'm repairing these windows, does anyone have a wiring diagram for this '41 window system. I have one from a 1942 shop manual & it's not quite the same as what I have one my car. Specifically I have a 3-terminal relay mounted on the firewall just above the overdrive relay. It's wired inline to one of the pump cotrol relays.
thanks

Altitude definitely changes compression pressure. My shop is only a few hundred feet above sea level.
If you have less air (lower barometric pressure) to start with, then your final compressed pressure is going to be lower. Your 60 psi sounds healthy enough, but you will be down on power vs. sea level.