Ok,,, I have started the reassembly on the engine, installed the rear main seal, and dry install the mains and rods to plastic gauge , mains were center of the bands, rods were less than .001 and more than .0005 inches.
So r&r crank,, lube with assy lube, using a breaker bar on the balancer nut to rotate the crank
commenced torquing, l did the mains to 85 lb and could could rotate the Crankshaft fairly easily,
Did the rods next after oiling the pistons and cylinders I installed the pistons and rod bearings.


TROUBLE arose.

I Figured torque was in the 45 lb for this engine.
Ok...
Problem
can only torque rod caps to 15lb and still rotate the Crankshaft,

So. Looking for some insights,

Crank was 10 under ground and I purchased the 10 over bearings.
Rod caps were resized for the late model 10 over bearings



My thoughts are to torque the rods to 15 to 18 pounds and install the cotter pins.
Run the car for about 100 miles and pull the pan and torque to 45 pounds, and check rotation,

I wanted a tight engine and it seams that's what I have.


Thanks in advance for your experience.

Larry

My NAPA store has these in-stock or at the local ware house along with the flex hoses, Ill look for Numbers if different than those posted, Then counter person just entered those numbers and WOW on the shelf ....

Check out STEEL RUBBER site
These are for a 37 115c ( did not see your year)
These require the Brake and Clutch arms to be removed from the car and the seals slid over the pedal end and then reinstalled.


Brake and clutch shank seal
p/n: 30-0143-24

Boot, brake and clutch pedal shank at toe board.Length: 2.9375 inches.

Here is what I found in the parts book.section 5.15001

It appears to be. 196801
Washer. 120's through to 115c
Larry

I have a replacement snubber / stabilizer.
(Forum QUESTION) Where do I find the replacement specialized washer ?

I'll call MAX MERRITT tomorrow to see if they have one now that I know where and what the broken part is and used for.

Figured this out this afternoon.
This is part of the snubber assembly.
The The stud bolts to bottom of transmission. The cupped washer rides with the lips towards the top and provides a sliding action on the snubber.
I found this when I took the snubber off of the frame mount. The snubbed was original to the car. See photos

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. Working on left driver side motor mount. Attached are picture of my parts that I had bagged.
Question I have is the Casteel nut stud install location. And my broken shoulder washer. 1/2 id hole 1" od.
See photographs.
Took this apart 11 months ago, now I'm trying to remember where they go. Aarg.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks to all
Larry.

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Thanks for the info.. Looking at Coalmont, B.C., Canada on the map I believe you have a few more hills than I do here in the Puget Sound basin , I'l be checking with the local NAPA dealer for oil, Larry

Duncan
That looks like a "factory" install :)

Great pictures,

I'm also finding out the 37 has a lot of uniqueness unto its self.

I would be interested in the connection points for the tubing.

With 80 years of build up gone from the block I would like to provide some cleaning of the oil ,

I am debating on the oil to use and am looking at 10/30 synthetic.

I live in the Pacific NW and we only have about 2 to 3 weeks a year where we get into the 80"s and normally don't get below 35 that often, Course tonight its about 28 out...

I have the block back, went to late year 10 over rod bearings, ( had the rod caps opened for them to fit).
Getting ready to start reassembly after getting a couple of little items.

Thanks for reaching out.

LArry