ALWAYS polish items that move against one another and also items with seal/gasket surfaces. Other items for fun. This is correct. Apparently he wasn't polishing correctly.

Disassembled the rear brakes and axles. Polished axle seal surfaces. Replaced inner seals, bearings, cups, outer seals and gaskets. Re-shimmed axle end-play. Extracted upper cam adjuster. Polished cam adjuster and star adjuster. Polished all components. New wheel cylinders and hardware kit. Replaced all nuts, washers and bolts. Freed-up, polished and greased hand brake cable. Performed preliminary hand brake adjustment.

Drained differential. No discernible metal. Pinion shaft seal needs replacement.

New master cylinder.

The nut on the tube from the bolt will turn. Someone already rounded off the more-easily accessible nut on the manifold. I haven't tried the other nut. I'm planning to buy a set of small vise grips, including a 4" long, long-nosed vise grip. This would be for the rounded nut. I imagine I'll go ahead and take the whole assembly apart now.

How much fluid fits into the whole system? I've poured in about 1 pint.

It appears that my car has 2 tubes and a switch connected to the manifold AND another tube connected to the end of item 1.0100. I haven't traced it to the other end but its going across under the engine. I have 1 brake line going to the fitting on the rear end where it splits for the rear brakes. Could I have 2 brake switches or 2 separate lines, one for each front brake?

If I need to modify this I'd like to go back to original.

Is something connected to item 1.0100 in the 1st image? I haven't been able to get a good look at it yet. The master cylinder is going to have to be replaced. I have a new one. I hope to take item 1.0100 out and separate the manifold with the tubes and switch still attached.

Does anyone have photos/videos/other documentation on the fittings/connections/distribution for the front of the master cylinder?

As I posted earlier, the two bearing cups, axles (with fixed thrust bearings) and the thrust block are in direct contact end-to-end and they float between the backing plates. The diameter of the center holes in the shims is larger than the bearing cup diameter, allowing both cups to move.

I will use a dial indicator and vise grips to measure the end play.

Attach file:

---

  (135.51 KB)

DavidPackard,

Thank you for your confirmation and elaboration.

Other than possibly having to make shims from shim stock, I believe I'm in good shape regarding replacing the bearings, cups, seals, shims (re-use some) and gaskets. I have the bearings/cups in-hand. I ordered on-line a seal/gasket kit. I also polished the axles' machined surfaces with folded-over strips of 220 sandpaper and Brasso. They are not perfect but are close. No thumb nail drag.

This was precipitated by the left drum being locked-up. The wheel cylinder wouldn't retract. The right-rear had serious oily grime built up on the back face of the blocking plate. I also am replacing the master and wheel cylinders and the hardware. I freed-up the upper brake shoe adjustment cams, wire brushed everything (radial wire wheel in drill) and reassembled. The shoes and star adjusters were re-used.

I do have an issue with leakage from the pinion shaft seal. Can this be replaced without removing the carriage?

Are you saying that the two bearing cups, axles (with fixed thrust bearings) and the thrust block are in direct contact end-to-end and that they float between the backing plates. The diameter of the center holes in the shims is larger than the bearing cup diameter, allowing both cups to move.

I guess this means that if you attach one backing plate without any shims against the housing then attach the other backing without any shims against the protruding cup, then the distance between the backing plate and the housing is the starting point to which the end play is added. How much is this end play? The measured value and the end play should be added and the sum divided by 2. This amount should be shimmed on both sides, centering the thrust block.

Does that sound right?

Do you have any axle shims for a 1951 200? I bought the inner and outer seals and gaskets today. I bought the bearings and cups a couple of days ago. I have assess to a press. I don't have a tool to measure the end play. I have the new wheel and master cylinders and a brake hardware kit.