This wonderful organ ducting Steve steered me to fits so snugly, you don't even need clamps. Again, all it's doing is directing fresh air.

The 1941-47 Clipper Fresh Air Option Howard pictured page one of this thread suggests the door or valve in the passenger side firewall duct adapter is open or closed by a "small lever on the instrument board." My car was shipped from Detroit with no heater, the Packard dealer selling my car new July 18th, 1947, Virgil Negranti Packard-Cummins Diesel-White Trucks Sales and Service, 565 Higuera Street, San Luis Obispo, CA adding a South Wind heater, so it uses that "Airflo" tab lever, out for open, in closed.

The 1941-47 Clipper Fresh Air Option duct originally went along the side of the engine bay. Since my Master Lube device providing full oil pressure before starting the engine hangs in the way, I ordered my ducting a foot longer than the requisite four feet (check yours before ordering) since it's a little tight going between the Master Lube device and my throttle spring, so it passes under, as you see in the attached photo.

BTW, shortly after buying my Packard, i removed the South Wind heater as i didn't like the idea of even a trace of gasoline coming into the cabin. A supercharged '37 Cord Phaeton owning friend had one, said they were nice because you got instant heat.

Many premium cars in the day were shipped sans heater, esp. those delivered in more moderate climes.

This entire episode as I tired of seeing the pair of unused duct adapters, tho' closing the aforementioned valve/door/flapper keeps engine fumes out of the cabin, esp. when stuffed with a rag. But thought it'd be nice to have fresh air without opening the cowl vent at the base of the windshield.

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Steve/58L8134, thank you, sir. Not only does Organ Supply Industries have the Right Stuff, but it is more durable, stronger than the original, and for less than half the cost a major Packard vendor in the Midwest wanted.

Those needing this material in any length, in 2-, 2 1/2-, 3-, 4, 5-inch diameter, contact Lisa Kitcey, OSI Customer Service, 800-374-3674, lisak@organsupply.com
2320 West 50th Street
Erie, PA 16506-4928
(814) 835-2244

You'll want their "Flexaust," per below:
https://www.organsupply.com/assets/CatalogPDFs/2014/Wind-Conductors-Revision.pdf

Thanks again, Steve. Something swell about a fine old car fitted with the same ducting used in church, concert, cathedral organs. E. Power Biggs and Bach devotee Dr. Schweitzer, the latter restoring organs when not treating ailing natives, would approve.

The hitch(es) above are that unless your car exposed to a hard freeze--two consecutive nights 30 or below -- or has air conditioning even in Phoenix in August, avoid antifreeze like the plague.

And according to an article by a Chrysler engineer member of the Auburn-Cord-Duesenberg Club in their newsletter some years ago, soluble oil is a long outmoded, inadvisable practice, like antifreeze leaving heat transfer inhibiting film on cooling system passages. Neither do you require "water pump lubricant." As a patent-generating industrial chemist friend who worked on cars when young pointed out, "water itself is a good lubricant," in such situation.

You're best served by using reverse osmosis water (read the label, do not buy unless you see that phrase), which is also available for 49 cents a gallon at any Whole Foods, with a good rust/corrosion inhibitor. I like No-Rosion Coolant Corrosion Inhibitor, originally produced to protect titanically expensive industrial cooling towers from their internal hellish conditions, but Red Line's Water Wetter is also good. For all the info you need on cooling system preservation, see the tech info link on www.no-rosion.com

As No-Rosion explains, never use distilled water.

There's a wealth of information on your car, Mike, via the provided search box on the upper right corner of this site's homepage, as well as the provided Literature Archive and Factory Service Index tabs under Main Menu to the left.

There are several sources of inexpensive reproductions of your '37's shop manual, the most important automotive book you can have.

As a longtime friend who's owned 70+ Packards, junior and senior, since he in high school, i upon trike, reminds, the goal should always be "factory standard."

Packard never built a better car at any price than your One Twenty.

Absolutely. You don't want that bushing running dry, since wear can affect your ignition. Think of the engineer even in the "modern" steam era of the '30s, '40s, into the '50s with his long-necked can "oiling around" the sighing locomotive during a station stop, even those with roller bearings throughout the axles and motion most of which fed by a Bijur-like system.

Palmer. Wasn't that Michael Caine's character in the Ipcress File?

HH56 right as rain as always. Too much oil on the ones he cautions can get on the brushes.

A machinist friend reminds us to use 20 or 30W nondetergent for such oiling duty. In fact, when he and our mutual auto/aero/mechanic/machinist/pilot friend replaced their compressors, they noted such suggested for them, and this was circa 1980.

For the distributor grease cup, we use the black molybdenum/graphite; StaLube, Texaco EP, etc. One of the Seven Sisters petrochemists years ago told us such grease a factor of eight-fold better than the orange fiber grease of the '40s through early '70s.

Had that stuff been around in the day, lotta Packards and other old cars'd still be on the road.

Zen and the Art of Packard Maintenance: Rather than a turn every 1,000 miles, give mine half a turn every 500. Overkill, of course.

I bow to all the above. However, flushing the system with inexpensive isopropyl alcohol available at any CVS, Rite Aid, etc. is hardly going to hurt anything, esp. since you're immediately after running compressed air through it.

Then you add the DOT 5. Regardless of brand, all made by Dow Corning w/ telltale lavender hue. I urge people to buy it and all else at any NAPA store, since they cater to old cars, have better stuff than the cheesy chains for the same and often less money.

Again, after all your work, why install something hydroscopic, absorbing moisture from the ambient air, the only reason you have to rebuild master and wheel cylinders?

Glycol brake fluid, DOT 3 or DOT 4 (Girling) should be changed every few years. DOT 5 lasts forever, so the only parts you'll have to address the next couple centuries, given your mileage, are brake shoes. Eventually.

A friend has the same batch of DOT 5 in his '40 120, '40 180 Darrin, and '42 160 convertibles since the 1980s and it still looks new, as that in my '47 Super.

Remember, too, that part of a complete tune up in the day was to check head and manifold torque engine warm (given iron head). But don't overdo; some folks don't back off quickly enough when click heard.
And you want the manifold to be able to expand and contract.

Be thankful our 356 engines have one-piece manifold, not three-piece a la Buick 320 straight eight.

Amen. 101:

DOT 5 silicon brake fluid. Regardless of label, all made by Dow Corning. Non-hydroscopic. You'll never have to do anything more to your brakes but occasional adjustment, and if you live another couple centuries, linings.

Would've sworn there was a Search box on the upper right of this smart site's homepage.

Packard, nor anyone else, ever made a better car. And you picked a handsome and refreshing color.

Had the same thought t'other day, Ernie. Only hitch is it won't bend enough without deforming. Look at the pictures HH56 posted.

Anyone out there with a 1941-47 Clipper having the same option Howard described?

Meanwhile, no, not spending $16/foot on something this originally cheap but effective.

Like some of you, have sunk buckets of lucre and time in this spoilt gothic grilled b__ch. But not on some trifle like this.

Afraid this is another case of wanting our original cowl vehicle i.d. plates inscribed by the selling dealer re-silkscreened. Why are people willing to buy reproductions on a fresh piece of tin when the original metal can be just as easily re-inked?

No, wait. Don't tell me. And please, no "you getcha a..." DIY projects.