Also, does anyone have a picture of how the W-clips hold the lens in place? Finally, my parts include a triangular coil spring that's about an inch tall - what's its purpose?

So, the job today is clean up the headlights and electrically connect them to the harness. Fortunately, I have all the parts and pieces including the connectors and tiny brass screws and bits to make the connections, but what I'm not sure is how to connect the harness to the connector.

The harness has 4 wires - ground, low beam, high beam, and parking light. The ground wire gets soldered to a cupped shaped piece of brass that seems to contact the inside of the connector housing to ground the whole light. Now the connector has three holes marked 1, 2, and 3. But I have the old connectors and it looks like only two of the holes were used for the low beam and high beam-- the lead for the parking light is cut. Does anyone know how this connector should be wired?

I'd have to agree that if you disconnect the ground cable from the battery and if you hook a voltmeter on the battery ground and the ground cable, and you have voltage then you have a short somewhere or what is referred to as a parasitic draw/leak. But the question is where, and how do you isolate it? Most importantly though is heat generation and whether the short could cause a fire.

Ordinarily, if you have a fuse box and turn everything off, you can pull fuses until the voltage goes to zero, then at least you can figure out what circuit is involved. You might not have a fuse box though to work with.

How many volts are present when everything is off?

Thanks very much. I was able to remove the shell, and the location of the spring was apparent (along the top of the shutter assembly were two grooved posts.) For the reference of any future searches, the distance between the spring posts was about 5.25 inches when the shutters are closed and about 6.25 inches when open. I was able to source a suitable spring from the local Ace Hardware, and after extending the spring a tad and mounting it, was able to achieve just enough pull to help close the shutters. A bit of lubrication on the linkage helped too.

I've got pull my radiator/shutters apart as I apparently don't have a spring to assist closing the shutters. Am I correct that the tension of the spring should be just enough to pull the shutters closed? Or is the tension even less than that?

Also, are the shutters attached to the radiator shell or the radiator itself?

I searched high and low for a gas cap for my 31. I was thrilled to find one with Henry Yeska at Hershey 2019. His was a nice cast bronze version with great chrome. Originals look like they were made of pot metal. I think I saw that he had the locking bail wire too. I have a business card with his number on it (as of 2019) -- 484-764-6351

I found a real nice repro at Hershey in 2019 that was cast bronze (I think the originals were potmetal) for my 31 that looks pretty similar. Was made/sold by Henry Yeska. I'll look for his contact information and will repost. I recall looking everywhere for one but his was the first and only I've ever seen.

Excellent, and thanks very much. I don't think the cam gear has been altered. Is there any risk of pulling the cam gear out as I draw up the distributor drive shaft or is the gear captive?

yes it looked like a 90 degree adjustment might be the fix. it's just a square drive system?

Hi guys -- Trying to get my 31 running. Carb Doctor rebuilt the DL Model 51, Jeff got the distributor curve situated, had the generator and voltage regulator rebuilt. Tried to start; nothing. pulled the distributor and saw the rotor is about an inch off where the distributor terminal is for Spark No. 1, that leads me to conclude the driveshaft is off. Is the adjustment such that I lift the shaft, reposition until I get the rotor to line up with No. 1 terminal? I take it shaft is geared where it mates to the camshaft gear?