With Ross's input..Beleive this is the problem with getting oil to shift.

So I need to figure out how to enlarge that oil hole..and add more.

Think if I could get 4) 1/4 or 5/16s. inch holes
Around bearing that would get oil to shift like normal. When started. cold..

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High range clutch. Kanters plates from the 80s..to me still look good.. But will be adding more.

Bronze bushing. Looks good..

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Hi.. Henry.

Not sure. Don't think book saids any thing...tail shaft gets some ....

Looked today and bell housing holes don't go into open area.

I plan on using something on gasket when it goes together..

It's the lower bolts. That's where oil holes are. And they must be under pressure.

The yellow..lol..I was wondering that too..lol..maybe it stripped and I marked it..putting it together..and tapped larger..

After taking off bell housing bolts. They were wet with oil..never heard of bell housing gasket leaking..but I think it was.

Things look good. Converter is dry..bell housing some oil...so it must of dripped instead of flinging..

Plan is to enlarge oil holes on convert. Shaft.

And add hole at end of shaft as packard did.

Will be removing other parts..going to add extra plate in high range clutch..

Not sure if i am going to put a New needle bearing and inner ring..

New seal for sure and maybe some type of to help seal..dry seal..

That's around 2000 miles. Maybe more..

Not sure about shift motor..works now. By putting in new shift relay..

I did put a ground jumper lead on parking relay..put that was after the motor was working.. Tabs broke off. And just used super glue to hold it. Plate up.. I may solder case to ground. Lug.

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Stuck in reverse

Something with sector or fingers. L to R gets stuck.

So pulling trans. Cause you have to remove alot to get motor off.

So this will let me see how trans is doing. Add Oki hole. Add extra plate in high range.

And put in melling oil pump.

My adapter..

And melling pump where bolt goes was not machined flat. See where lock washer was touching one side. So I milled it flat.

Using 25 thou shim. Not shim stock..to seal over bolts.

Still need to make shaft.

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Hi..Jack.

Just 2.

1..to move bolt in so block does not need to be ground.

2. Get get filter up more from bottom of pan.

Packards sits on bottom. So to speak.

I will send you a plate if you want and have it cnc...another option. For pack owners..

I screwed up..I counter sunk the wrong side. On my sample..

Here is where I am at

Had to make jig to center shaft.

3/8s flat. Once I drill holes in plate i will be able to see I can keep flat head screws within pump..maybe turn head down.

Edit..going to grind off that thin part of pump body. Over head bolt..grind it back to that yellow mark

Edit again..

Pump bolt will be moved in about where that yellow mark is.

That end hole will be ground..or milled back or removed.. Plenty of room to drill another hole..

Edit..the part over bolt..could be milled up to clear bolt..to keep pump integerty..

Edit. Update..no need to remove corner of pump over bolt..clears the top of bolt..as it sits now..only going to have plate polished..flat..

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Looking at it..I think 1/4.5/16s Or 3/8s. Flat stock will work. With flat head cap screws

Also. Milling off corner of pump where main bolt is. Plate would go around it to.

3/8s will give more thread torque.

I think you still could use pack buttons via a relay.

It would take some soldering..and 6 relay s..

And to figure out that electronic board..where you can break into each circuit.