Not sure why I was thinking 120, but the 110 carb is obviously different. Stromberg BXOV-26. Still tough to find new, but you never know...

An NOS Carb is a tall order, not impossible, but real scarce. I bought and sold a new EE-16 this spring, and the last new EE-16 I had was at least 5 years ago, also sold in a heartbeat. There are several rebuilders who can do a show quality restoration, so unless you get very lucky, I suggest following that route.

There is only one source to have your runningboards restored, Hunley Acuff in Georgia. Not cheap, but quality never is. Hunley Acuff Running Boards 1423 Wilson Rd
Rossville, GA 30741 706-866-4875

I believe the clock glass is available reproduction from a company in California, also sells on ebay under name arebareb .

Feel free to contact me directly flackmaster@sbcglobal.net I buy and sell parts to support my restoration efforts...

The snubber with the small tie rod end looking things was introduced for the 17th series/1939 models. For 1935-1937 juniors, the snubber was basically two plates of metal vulcanized together. (35-37 version repro available from Steele), not originally installed on the 38's, but suggested in the 7-1-38 service letter.
What the 1-1-39 service letter is referring to is retrofitting the new/better/improved 17th series snubbers into 16th series cars, and interestingly suggests the new snubber superceding the old snubber number. Bear in mind, however this applies to NON=overdrive (1938) cars, as the forward link is different, so don't get any bright ideas about using the old version (steele repro) in later OD cars.

Probably, however if you look at the note and part numbers 18.010 and are not confused, you are smarter than me. Unbolt, or shall I say remove, since I was confused as to whether you had clips on two ears or bolts, the whole driveshaft, start taking measurements and photos if you can, and I will see what I have for further information or joints in stock.

DF

Well Said, Dave, and what really intrigues me is the design of this with the left hand/right hand turnbuckle - it becomes too easy to put a long wrench on this to overtighten, and stress/bend the neck as on Mal's...I agree that worn engine mounts and tranny mounts contribute to the failures on this. John - there was a half dozen of the tranny mounts in the club stock if any of yours are suspect (no front engine mounts, but these are easy/repro). Bates engineering is working on a retrofit design for the snubber using urethane bushings, like a common stabilizer link, but treat this as just a rumor for now.

I have some notes scribbled on interchanges for 354672 -
Spicer 5-2048, Napa (precision kit) 508, Neapco 280550 x283500(p), TRW 20006, heck I've even got a Ford number B5AZ-4635A, Borg-Warner 114-2048, AEC AE2126, GMB G2100, more if needed...

Mal - Would you please post the bearing and seal interchange numbers before they boxes are tossed.
Thank you.

HH56 - no insult intended in starting this thread specifically rather than tagging onto the other one, in fact, I meant to reference back to your prior reply, but got distracted by not figuring out how to load the pdf file. Apology hereby submitted.
The wires at the ignition switch, 13, 19, 18 look consistant/same to me?

Eric - Dave's number and email are posted on the website. Suggest you remind him directly as he does not frequent this site. And you still owe me front bumper braces.

In the attached scans of the 115c and 120c wiring diagrams there is a slight difference in the voltage regulator wiring. Wire # 23 appears to simply be a (n additional) ground wire running from the voltage regulator to the generator. My objective is to verify/understand the new wiring harness, having 4 wires at the voltage regulator noted as A B F and ground and at the generator as A F and ground is compatable for either an autolite or a delco regulator/generator. Hope my question makes sense as I am no wiring expert. Comments please, thanks in advance.

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