This picturehttps://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=28018#forumpost28018 and this report from another forum might help with the governor wrench. He also had a 41 and was having troubles with removing governor in place without the proper wrench.

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Don't know about the interchange but since the fuzz looks like it might be on a separate piece almost crimped in might be a couple of options. Doubt it could be uncrimped without damage but maybe if it was started at one end could be pulled up & loosened.

When I did the 56 HT, there was fuzz on the rear quarter chrome pieces the window slides up into that was in bad shape. Replaced with Steels bow drill tape for convertibles which looked very much like the original fuzz & worked pretty well.

See Restoration Specialties has several varieties of similar & wonder if something like that could be applied if the old fuzz is mostly gone from the support. Also, they have several sizes of belt weatherstrip which might be a possibility if the crimp could be maintained while getting the old support out & glue the new piece in it's place.

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Was the lever damaged or shaft bent when it loosened? When you disconnect & move the lever at trans now, are the 5 notches now distinct and no play at all in trans lever in the detents. Since the inner lever was apparently loose before, if now tight was selector linkage re-adjusted per manual so full & correct travel is being made by the linkage and gearshift knob and it isn't hanging partway & not able to fully drop into a detent.

If car is stock, no damage will have occurred. Just place cables in proper order and repolarize regulator per instructions. If it still doesn't charge, then gen, reg or wiring needs some work. The motors are all wound in such a way as to not be polarity dependent & will work either way. Heater blower is only questionable one as some have said it runs backward, other say not.

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There are drain plugs on the converter. You have to take the lower flywheel cover off and loosen one for air entry, turn 180 degrees and remove other so it can drain. Define shifting hard again. Mechanical as hard to move lever or slamming into gear.

Will leave the ID to others but for my two bits, unless he has some gold bars that come with it, I'd think it was a tad overpriced looking at the general condition and rust streaks--. Almost wonder looking at the stain patterns inside and on engine if it didn't sit in some water. Someone hoping to fund his retirement, no doubt.

I must say, Pennsylvania seems to have one convoluted DMV system when you can't even register a 30 year old assume nothing out of the ordinary produced Ford as a regular vehicle. The description of antique license also sounds a lot like Calif wording so what are you to do if they won't let you register as regular and not supposed to drive as antique.

product called Dip & Grip

Absolutely right. Hadn't thought of that stuff in years and think there is similar with slightly different name. Just need to pour a bit in a smaller container so you can get it flush and coat high enough.

Are yours intact? 3 springs plus an L shaped piece of metal in front that catches the vent window frame and another flat piece in back the top of window presses against when up. As long as springs intact and hinges don't bind, the plastic around those metal catch pieces seems the biggest issue as it cracks and falls off. I doubt if anyone makes replacements--but haven't looked. If springs broken, they don't look too complicated and maybe able to make or find something that will work at one of the industrial catalog places. If the spring mounts are broken, then that might be an issue not easily solved.

Believe there is a 5th screw. Look inside the hinge in the rear sort of behind where the "hump" of the hinge is.