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The specialist actually repaired the damage done by the self-tapper screws, and re-bound the coils with new string, replaced the bearings, brushes and all cables, cleaned and re-finished all surfaces.... and replaced the offending screws with period brass slotted machine screws! Cost to me was ?250 ($412) which is the going rate but turnaround was 1 week whereas other shops quoted 9 weeks!!

Thanks OD - I thought it was likely to be that x?@/! pump again!!

It occured to me that if I switch the pump off and then let the engine idle for a minute or so it will relieve the pressure...... and indeed it does!

Problem not solved but averted

Thanks

Chaps,

How can I stop fuel from running out of the air intake on the carb when I shut the engine off? (1930 Detroit Lubricator)

As you know I am currently fighting a battle with the generator and doing all sorts of "sparky" tests but with the constant stop-start that is required, this is getting dangerous!

Thanks guys for your valuable insights.

I am slowly learning the finer details of the 3 brush dynamo (infact I get it 100%) and the regulator/cut out (about 60%).

It is sometimes confusing as there is a lot of seemingly authoritative advice on the interwebs which is actually not properly thought out or just plain wrong. Commonly terms are confused - current / charge / volts / field / induction / amps etc seem, to some people, to be freely interchangable!

(Dont worry - I know exactly what each one means unlike some so-called experts)


Now - back to the saga.

This morning I;

1 removed the relay

2 connected voltmeter between the +ve output on the generator and the +ve terminal on the battery (+ve grounded!) - 0 volts

3 Started the engine 0 volts

4 Connected the field wire on the generator to the -ve battery terminal with a jump lead - 14 volts !!

5 Increased revs from tickover - 19 volts !!

So the good news is that the generator is working very well indeed. I was confused as to why the voltage was so high but I have now seen OD's post regarding the lack of load from the battery. This was of course connected but the flying lead from the ammeter to the relay was not, hence no current was able to flow to the battery.

So step 1 complete!

I now have to turn my attention to the Bosch regulator / cut out I have. I'll take a look at the one on Ebay as an alternative but there is no reason at all why the one I have should not work - its specification is all but identical to the factory original.

More to follow but, in the meantime, thanks again for your advice.

Thanks Dave.

no I did mean 20 volts !!! This was apparently because he tested it with a 12v supply...?

I'm determined to get this one sorted without referring to an auto electrician.

I'm going to sit in a darkened room and think some more.....

This dynamo business is beginning to get on my nerves!

I have now got the dynamo back from the specialist who has made a nice job if refurbishing it. He demonstrated it on the test bed (with 12v trough the field coils) producing 20 volts!!

Now heres the rub. This test was done with the shaft rotating clockwise when viewed from the commutator end but I was convinced that it actually runs anti-clockwise when on the car. He demonstrated that this cant be the case and to prove it, he spun it anticlockwise and it produced nothing.

Now its on the car and I am convinced that it does actually run anticlockwise and sure enough there is no action.

I should say that the car is a 1930 7-45 but the dynamo is actually an Owen Dyneto type CL1005 from a later 9th series car.

Please dont tell me that the later units ran the other way??

Help!!!!!!

Not sure whether you all have seen this

It appeared on Detroit News website a few days ago

Enjoy!

http://www.detnews.com/article/20110328/OPINION03/103280321/1409/METRO/Crumbling-Detroit-Packard-plant-becomes-hallowed-ground-for-many

O-D, my ego is pumped up again. I fixed it!

I decided that it was going to be a disaster to employ the Irish Screwdriver (hammer) again or to try and twist the spindle out so instead I decided to drill out the rivet that holds the magnet on so that I could get into the spindle from the other end. How I thought I was going to reconnect it afterward is my business!!

I drilled the head of the rivet off and then gently started to drift the end of the spindle out with a punch.
I didnt need to remove it completely as the slight movement released the magnet from the casing and it now spins freely.

To secure the magnet again (it wasn't loose but just beginning to flex a bit) I applied some resin glue which has done the trick.

I'll post some more pics of the reassembly over the weekend

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Update......

I have managed to break the casting !! Hopefully I can stitch it back together considering the location of the break before I spend $450 on a new one from Australia!

However the spindle is still stuck incredibly tight so there's still chance of destroying it completely!

It seems that the magnet end is really tight up against the casting which makes me think that the spindle is, in effect, too short. I really need to have comfort that the spindle is in 2 halves, joined in the middle by a thread. If this was the case, I ought to be able to slacken off the thread and the spindle should rotate more freely. Its not inconceivable that when it was restored, the spindle was overtightened and it never worked thereafter.

However it is very difficult to get a grip on the brass end (where the cable goes in). I fully expect to either break the spindle or mash the brass end if I try too hard.

I think its best to wait patiently till I see how it actually works.

G'Day David

Have you fitted this new casting on yours?

If so, how did the spindle get fixed? Is it a two-part thing that screws together inside?

I need to get it out first to be sure that the fault is with the casting and not just years of muck inside.

Thanks for the link though