Which begs the question, why? The original oil bath air filter is effective and doesn't clog up relatively quickly like a paper element does.

Yes, it's the separate control unit that is leaking. The rod does not appear to be leaking. As far as I know all three are original.

Of three '55's, all have leaky power steering valve assemblies. Is this an endemic problem with them? Any words of wisdom?

The starter (ignition) switch popped out of the dashboard and looking at the bezel it appears to not have anything to really hold it into place. There are little nubs where it looks like something more substantial should exist to lock into place. BTW, speaking of substantial, the spring behind it looks to be overkill.

Am I correct? If so, I assume a new bezel is needed. Anyone have an extra to sell?

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Thanks for all the details. Not as easy as I had hoped. I haven't removed the entire cluster before and that part looks to be a monumental task and to get everything back into place. Working on the cluster itself looks relatively easy.

The speedometer glass in my '55 400 has cracked (broken). Any tips on how to replace it and where to get a new one?

Found my set of trim removal tools which are a very hard plastic and was able to use them as wedges to break it free without breaking off a lip.

The O-ring was only partially in the groove and the horn button must have been forced in. Consequently the O-ring was deformed.

After removal of the wheel I was able to lubricate the upper steering shaft bearing, which was my goal. It had high stiction which made driving it annoying as you couldn't use gentle pressure to keep the car in a straight line, but it would break free in opposing directions leading to erratic driving.

I had to use the tool to work the deformed O-ring into the groove along with a light film of silicone grease as the button went in to get it seated properly but mission accomplished.

Thanks for the help. I've had the '48-'50's apart many times (the button is a press and turn) but never before the '55-'56 so wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong.

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I tried silicone spray with the tube/straw but that didn't seem to help. I'll keep working at it.

I've been running a stiff metal putty knife around under it and prying hard to where the lip is likely to break off and it's not budging in the slightest.

Okay, this should be pretty straightforward. I need to remove the horn button but I can tell whoever installed it last didn't do so correctly. I can make out what appears to be a rubber ring but it's curled partly inside the horn ring and partly exposed from it. The button is cocked a little.

The problem is when I try to pry the button out it's on the verge of what feels like could break it, yet it won't budge. Any tips on how to remove it intact? It's in nice shape and I don't want to ruin it.