Part of the problem is younger people are not that interested. If at all. People in their 50's, 60's and above couldn't wait to get a car, now the young ones just don't care much. When they get interested in a car, it'll be something much newer. I find very few younger guys have any interest at all. As we die off, there is no new market coming through the ranks, and the cars are still around. Face it, as the guys we know who love these cars die off, the cars are still here. They go to the ad sheets, auctions, ebay and so on, but there are fewer and fewer buywers, so, same supply and less demand = lower prices.

One strange thing I've noticed - younger women seem to be quite attracted to them. I have many younger women - teens, 20's and 30's - come up all excited to look them over, ask about them, sit in them. The guys want to play a video game. Too bad the girls weren't that interested 40-50 years ago!

Still working my way to getting the motor out. I did a search on removing the radiator, which seems like a problem. Some said it will come out the top with the top brace in place, some said you have to remove it. Someone in this thread mentioned cutting it out of the way.

I can't seem to get the radiator out with it in place. The top outlet won't clear. If I remove the fan and lower hose, will I have enough room, or am I just making more work? It would seem that it was designed to come out straight up. Am I fighting a losing battle?

I'll have to say, the engineers on this should have had to spend some time in the field working on things before they got to design anything.

It's stuck, which I can probably solve. But the block is also cracked. It's been welded about 8" horizontally just below the head, center, driver's side. Plus, below that, where the water jacket returns to the cylinders, it has a long crack that appears to have been JB welded. But it's obviously been leaking. A "new" long block that supposedly has around 29k miles makes me a lot happier. Got the pan off right now, appears to be correct mileage from looks.

Car was restored about 20 years ago, appears to have been a quality, frame off job, probably new floor, certainly no rust or dents. The guy knew nothing about cars, tried to drive it and a Studebaker with similar history, all the time. At every little problem he had to get a tow, hire a mechanic and got tired of it. 10 years ago he drove them into his barn and left them. Now in his 80's, put his farm up for sale recently, it sold right off and he just had an auction.

Motor, brakes and fuel system needed attention. Tank is in the radiator shop getting boiled and lined, found wheel cylinders at NAPA for $10 each, new hoses, shoes at Kantor and a motor from another forum member. Gasket set on the shelf at my local machine shop.

All that seems to be missing is time. And getting out the last broken manifold stud. I've taken out a couple dozen before, but the last one on this block has me baffled so far.

At least I was 't overlooking something real basic. These tips help a lot. I don't recall having to do anything special on the 54, so I guess they changed things in later models.

As to gaskets, went to my old time machine shop, since he keeps all his old books and looked up gaskets. Not only found them, he had a set on the shelf, minus the head gasket, which I don't need. Fel pro FS7628S.

I have a skidloader with forks to pull and replace the motor, and a track loader to back that up if needed. What I'm missing is knowledge, and you guys are helping with that. Thanks.

I'm changing the motor in my 48 Coupe, not sure the model, but it's a club coupe, 327 with a 3 speed. got a few questions.

I've changed a few motors and transmissions over the years, and once pulled and reinstalled a 3 speed out of my 54 Packard hearse laying on my back on gravel with no jack. But - this one is quite a different animal.

First problem is, there is not enough room to pull the transmission back due to the x crossmenber. I did get it out, over my pit, using a transmission jack, but it didn't come out straight, and I had to angle the engine down so much the oil pan was laying on the tie rod when it finally made it out. There is no way it's going back that way. Can I assume it must go in as a unit with the motor? That would seem to be quite an inefficient way to replace the clutch.

Second problem is, the spring holding the arm with the throwout bearing is connected to the collar on the front of the transmission. I managed to get it off after the transmission was out a little bit, but I'm sure that isn't what is intended. Putting it back is probably going to take a little more knowledge than I have right now. It may becomne obvious when I have it all out on the floor, but if you have any hints, please send them along. This can't be new territory for most of you Packard veterans. (I'm a wayward MOPAR guy, but I sure like this thing!)

Just for grins, I'll pass along my experience calling the parts houses today, looking for pan and manifold gasket sets. First one thought I was saying Acura. Took a while to get her to understand Packard. Her - "Who makes it?" Me - "Packard". Her, "No, what company makes it? What is it a model of". Me - "Packard Motor Company, they made them over 50 years." Her - "I can't find that in my computer". Me - "I guess we're done, huh?".

Next one - "How do you spell that?". Me - "PACKARD". After a lot of time in the computer, he says "I'll go back and get the books." I think, great, we might get somewhere. Him - "OK, I'm finding something now. Is it AMC?" "Nope, older." Him "I find Pacer, is that it?" Me, "No that is that bubble looking POS they made in the 60's. I don't think we're going to find anything. Thanks."

Oh, if anyone has the fel pro or victor numbers for the manifold and pan gaskets, it might help. I'll probably just have to order it from Kanter or one of those, but with numbers I might find it locally.

Attach file:

---

  (94.03 KB)