The car has AC.

Can I file the flywheel teeth or will I have to pull the transmission and replace it? I will pull the inspection cover tomorrow and see what the teeth look like.

12 volts

Thank you all. It seems the pressure is fine since the light goes out when I speed up.

I figured dropping the pan was in order after I found the sludge in the filter tank. And I also thought the valves need adjusting since the motor is now run-in.

As for the new whirling noise closer to the driver, I think it was the starter. Yesterday I drove to Lowes, came out, hit the starter, heard lots of clanging metal which sounded like the starter coming apart. I let the engine start and waited a moment while the flywheel teeth finished digesting the starter pinion and spring then drove it home. Pulled the starter today to find no pinion, some nashed flywheel teeth, and a crack in the starter drive housing. It's a Delco-Remy 1108008

I need a core to replace it. Will a '51 300 Ultramatic starter work on a '52 300 overdrive?

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When I changed the oil on the '52 300 a couple of months ago I had to clean a lot of graphite-like metallic cakes from the bottom of the oil filter tank. After a couple of hundred miles the oil is already dark and that grey metallic sludge seems to be coming back. My mechanic said a lot of the old engines do that.

The only other issue possibly related is the oil pressure light coming on when the oil is hot particularly off throttle. I know the engine was rebuilt but I'm not sure to what extent. It takes pump gas and has a healthy exhaust note.


I also noticed tappet clatter and recently there is a more clock-like whirling sound when the engine is running. I suspect something is wrong with it but my mechanic doesn't seem to know the Packards well. I'm new to this type of car and it doesn't have the history with it. Could the oil pump be coming apart?

It was a vacuum leak in a hose. Now it's pulling 21". I ran it through first and second wide open and the car flew. It's got enough power now. I think I need to lower the idle speed now. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

The engine has been rebuilt. The only visible leak is the carburetor body gasket. I hooked up my vacuum gauge and it read 10-12."

Is the adjustment for the brake shoe in the slot at the bottom of the drum? What took do I need to adjust it? Thank you

John

I've been driving the '52 300 for several months now and noticed its not performing as well as it should. It seems the accelerator pump gets stuck sometimes and then it will suddenly kick in. The engine also stalls out like a light when I go full throttle. Additionally the gas mileage has been poor.

I want to rebuild the 2 barrel WGD but I got to thinking it may run better with the 4 barrel. Would the 4 barrel from a 1953 work on a 1952? Would the 4 barrel give the same gas mileage? And do I need the manifold or anytging else to convert to 4 barrels? Thank you all for the help.

John