This forum discussion seemed to point to the clutch fingers adjustment also.

I haven't fixed this gear grinding issue yet. However I do plan on dropping the transmission in a few weeks. I didn't mention one fact before is that the transmission shifts great when cold, but after you drive it a little bit, it starts acting up. Also it doesn't do it all the time. So it seems to me perhaps a clearance is borderline and when the metals expand due to heat, the clearance is not sufficient enough anymore.

Since it happens at a stop when the transmission isn't turning, shouldn't you suspect the clutch or the pilot bearing? Since it happens at a stop, you can rule out the transmission. When you install the clutch is there any alignment you should perform?

I did try try heavier gear oil to no avail.

Thanks for the help.

I have a 4 speed. All gears grind at a stop with clutch depressed.

I'm having issue with transmission gears clashing even at a stop. I have a friend who's knowledgeable about cars and asked if the clutch has any adjustments like a a clutch brake. I'm already aware of the clutch free play adjustment.

Thanks. That may be an option. Today I went and removed the 2nd Optima battery I had in parallel which was installed to try to fix my starting problem. It actually never did fix my starting problem. Car turned over again like a jack rabbit on one battery. Unfortunately because of health reasons, Glenn is not taking any more new work in.

Amazing how good those 6Vs systems are when they are in good shape.

I got my starter and generator back from Glenn. The starter turns over like a jack rabbit. Did not realize how slow my old starter was. Glenn recommended a lead acid battery vs Optimas.

Any comments on negative effects using 6v Optimas instead of lead acid battery.

I finally sent my generator and starter to ACE-Wichita. Glenn is a pleasure to work with daily updates. The starter from his testing is not up to his standards so he will work on it.

The generator also needed work. The armature was shot and is needing a rebuild. Also he says the voltage reg that the shop used is a piece of crap. So he plans on rebuilding a cutout for me. This is after being "serviced" by a local shop

of course proof is in the pudding but I'm anticipating being able to start the car after a warm shutoff.

Thanks for the ACE-Wichita recommendation.

Thanks for all the response. I plan to get my mechanically inclined car members from my HCCA club over to the house to have a look at it. I plan to have everything ready to drop. Car will be on a lift and I do have a transmission jack.

Some of these guys in the HCCA are amazing. One guy was missing the crankcase from his Mercer engine. he decided to learn how to do foundry work. From pictures he built a mold and had it poured.

I have a 4 speed with synchos in the top two geras. Oil has been changed so no I'm running the equivalent of 600W steam oil. No change.

Synchros have been replaced recently. I'm suspecting something else as when I'm at a stop, gears are still spinning. Shifting between 2nd and 3rd is good most of the time when driving down the road. It's when I'm at a stop and trying to shift into anything including 1st and reverse. This only happens once the car warms up. Cold there is not a problem.

I have made the problem a lot less by keeping car in second gear until I'm almost at a stop. Then I shift to neutral and most of the time I can shift to first with an issue if I do this.

My 32 Packard shifts great when it is cold. When warm it appears that sometimes the clutch is binding and not releasing as even at a stop I can't shift into gear without clashing. It appears something is expanding when warm and binding.

The clutch has been adjust to know avail. And agin when cold it shifts great.

Is there an adjustment that can be made on the clutch? Transmission?

Anything else I should look for?