No getting around the cutting and welding unfortunately.

If you get replacement panels from Classic2Current be aware that the wheel opening shape won't accommodate an original fender skirt. So if you want skirts, you'll either have to reshape the patch panel or make a custom skirt.

Classic2Current only has patch panels for the 4 door fender but you can make them work on a 2 door with some additional patching. The panels are about $100/each plus shipping.

I would go with the parts car fender if you can find one. I could not find rear fenders on any parts cars that weren't as badly rusted out as the one's I needed to replace. So I went the patch route but it is a lot of work to get a good fit.

The number on the radiator is 1A5453, It is also embossed with "Modine" and "P10 53"

Here's a picture of a 39 120

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I acquired a Packard radiator in a bunch of parts. It is the same height as my 1953 and 1954 radiators but is 2" narrower. The mounting bracket on the passenger side is extra wide so that the mounting holes line up with the standard Packard radiator support. See the attached picture.

"54 Packard" was written on the radiator but that doesn't necessarily mean anything.

Does anyone have any idea what this came out of? I can't use it but I would like to know who could.

Thanks

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90% of Mustangs were powered by Packard. What a fabulous engine! Not only did it have tremendous performance, it had to operate at high rpm's for hours at a time.

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I had a similar decision to make a couple of years ago on my 39 120. It takes a slightly wider tire: 7.00x16. I went with a bias ply from Lester. They are expensive but they drive nice and handle great.
The problem that you are going to have with radials is they are too wide in 16" tires. You will need to find the tallest, narrowest radial tires available to mimic the 6.50x16. When I went through this a couple of years ago, the narrowest tires i could find were still over 1/2" wider than the 7.00's and smaller in diameter, too. So just not a good fit. Maybe someone makes a better match now.

If it is the carb switch, sometimes just a tap on the side will free up the switch. I have had problems with mine off and on over the years. I wired a push button switch to the two terminals on the solenoid. I mounted the switch on the bottom lip of the dash board so it isn't even noticeable. So if the carb switch doesn't work, I have an over-ride. Packard got rid of the carb switch in 1954.

The 54 Pacific is the 2 door hardtop version of the Convertible. It has the same trim. The tail lights, tail fins and side trim are all unique to 1954 Pacifics and Convertibles. They all came with the 359 engine with an aluminum head, although the heads are frequently replaced with a 327 cast iron head. The Pacific was the top of the line 2 door hardtop. It was an pretty expensive car so they didn't make a lot of them. It was on a shorter chassis than the big 4 door sedans.

They might have the older ultramatic tranny or the gear start ultramatic depending on when they were made in the production run. You can tell right away by looking for the dipstick/filler tube. If it is present on the firewall near the steering column, it is the gear start. If no filler is to be seen, then it is under the floor tunnel and it is an older ultramatic. I suspect that they could be ordered with a manual tranny but I have never seen one set up this way.

Lots of options were available, so it might have power hydraulic windows, power seat, wonderbar radio, rear speaker, power antenna, back seat heater, outside mirrors mounted on the chrome belt moulding. All of them that I have seen had power brakes and power steering. Surprisingly, these options don't really affect the value much in fact many Packard drivers would prefer a manual tranny with manual windows.

I've acquired an outside mirror that mounts on the drivers door belt molding for my 54, but the silver on the mirror has gone bad. Can anyone give me some idea how these come apart? I don't see any screws or nuts or anything that would release the mirror from the base.

These "wetter" coolant additives are surfactants (soap is a surfactant). Surfactants lower the surface tension of water. Cast iron engine blocks quite often have rough spots in the water jacket which will create a hot spot. The water near the hot spot will form a vapor bubble, reducing the effective surface area of the water jacket. A surfactant will help dissipate the bubbles and effective increase the surface available for heat transfer.

Since every engine block is different, these additives may help or may be useless. The easiest way to tell if this will help your engine is to try it but don't be surprised if it doesn't work as advertised. I've tried it in both my Packards and it didn't make any difference in either.