Couldnt the boards be stripped to bare metal, the extra holes either MIG\TIG welded or brazed closed, and then coated?

51-54 Manual Master Cylinders were not mounted under the car as in 55/56, but forward of the firewall, on the frame rail right behind the steering box. So unless it was a filler port access for the 54 and prior Ultramatics, then there would be no reason for it.


Housekeeping > Topic Merged with AL's project blog.

No fog, but there was a bitter cold wind blowing in from the Ocean. I really like that area of the Central Coast where the Pine trees meet the ocean, and the mix of sandy beach and rocky cliffs. A large colony of Elephant Seals were ashore a coupe miles north of Cambria and were sunning themselves on the beach.

If I hit the lotto and could retire with money in the bank, then I would love to buy a small house up there in Cambria. Gorgeous rural part of Californian coastline that very few people ever see. One moment you're in rolling grass plains with grazing animals, then you're in Pine forests. On the Hearst lands there are wild herds of Zebra and Barbary Sheep, and other grazing animals that were set free from Hearst private zoo back in the 40s and have done very well on their own.

Don't know of any from the 30s but there were some Packard racers in the 20s

Postcard of 1923 Indy racer

moodyscollectibles.com/postcard-news/?p=657

Ralph DePalma on Wikipedia with Packard V12 record holder and Indy racer pics

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ralph_DePalma

If the car is driveable drive it around with the pedal pushed down, maybe it will come free. A shot of brake kleen spray into the clutch helps free it up.

Otherwise as Phil says you can slip a knife blade in between the clutch plate and pressure plate and work it loose.

Jack up the car and prop the clutch pedal down with a stick between the dash board and clutch pedal. It's worth making a nice stick, you will need it later.

With the clutch pushed down pry the plate free with a knife or putty knife. Keep turning the engine until you get it all the way around.

It is surprising how little it takes to stick the clutch together. As soon as you start driving it should be good as new.

Here is why you save the stick. Next time you park the car put the stick back in there to hold the clutch down. That way it will not stick again even if you leave it sitting for 3 years.

O_D & PV8, Thanks for your offer and efforts. Need to do some more checking as it's close, but not quite with cigar--although maybe with minimal work.

Thanks for the welcome & the info Mal. Not a member of the Club yet - but will be if I go ahead with this project as I hope. Still in the research stage at this point.

The centre of the filler tube sets 4-3/8 inches forward of the rear face of the tank.

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John,

Yes, you should stop by, the car is in the back on a lift. I was thinking about stopping by tomorrow to check on progress. If you would like to join me, give me a call.

Tom

I am assuming no longitudeinal taper because upper and lower halves of the tank are the same die stamp.

8-1/2 inches tall measured from top of ribs on top and bottom:

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