I would also wager that if shop temperatures vary widely, then condensation would become an issue also. That would also be true for tools stored in truck tool bins/boxes.

Like as not, these guys are putting the Snap-On salesman's kid through astrophysics school.


I wager that Google knows all the wrench calibrators.


To me, the problematic part becomes the shipping, but then, what do I know???

Something I found out awhile back, and quite by accident. The aircraft grease monkeys send their torque wrenches out regularly to have them calibrated.

I saw the ad and agree with your assessment of the car for sale. Not that sure I want a '21, but then again, I have a rationalizing and justifying mind, so there's that.

Just cut a deal for a 1954 327 engine with, of all things, a 3-speed trans. No o/d but it has all of the stick stuff that I'll need for those other engines plus a good starter, which neither one has.


Business Day around the house. It happens sometimes . . . .


E/T/A: I reckon that this means that there will be a spare 327 engine from the flywheel mounting flange forward available to a good home at some point in the near future.

You can call the damned bird Fred for all I care.


Which reminds me, I have a 22/23 series bird I should sell off to someone lacking one, as I'll never use it.

You're welcome.


Nice looking shop, BTW.

Yeah, there is, or certainly there should be. I recently went through this gyration with a 356 gear reduction starter solenoid. Like as not, you're going to have to play with it. I'd first suggest to quit using the charger and hook your cables to the 6V battery.


The solenoid is a relay. So, with 4 posts, you likely will have hot going to 2 of the posts. The 3rd post will carry current to whatever moves when the electromagnet is activated. The 4th one is grounded to activate the electromagnet inside the solenoid. In my test, the starter began to run when the circuits were completed. I used the positive jumper cable to ground to the starter body.


I have a R11 transmission out of the car. If it would be of service to you, I can talk to you on the phone this weekend, remove the solenoid from my transmission/overdrive, and (if the damned things isn't fried) figure out how to test it with you so you can determine what's what with yours. Shoot me a PM if so. Otherwise, take a whack at this and I hope it works. Experimentation is half the fun.


I also have a 1947 Clipper 6 and an 8 to go into it at some point, so your project is right up my alley. Best wishes to you!!!

Sure, I'll play.


Vehicle: 1946 Clipper Deluxe.

Engine: rebuilt 282 with around 700 miles on it. The former owner put in a Kanter master kit, so it has new innards.

Transmission: Packard 3-speed standard - no overdrive.

Differential: stock.


Back East, there is a radar device in constant use on the road past the airport. The speeding meter shows as about 2 MPH slower than the car display between 45 and 55 MPH. So I think that what I observe on the dashboard is pretty close to what I'm really going when driving.


The car pulls nicely from whatever RPM by simply applying more throttle.I have taken mostly flat curves at 20 in high and gone right along. It's happy and sounds decent at the aforementioned 45-55. It starts sounding a touch frantic over 60, so I suppose that Double Nickels is plenty fast enough until an o/d unit takes up residence behind the engine.

It is possible that Wat is becoming slightly notorious in the greater Packard community in the Mid-Atlantic and Points West area. A guy called out of the blue with what amounts to a 356 short block. He bought it for the head. Said I had inquired after the engine last fall. I did? Oh, okay. No matter.


And it seems that he has that '47 Super which has made the southeast rounds on Facebook Marketplace since last fall also. He did mention a number closer to the one that it started out at, which begins to make it more interesting.


Looks like more road trips as Spring makes its way here . . . .