That could have been a running part change. So in 1953 if you needed a new sender for your '52, Packard may have just given you the new style one. Happens all the time. Perhaps they found the spade style one was subject to coming loose, and changed to ring style. Or they just changed suppliers.

Since you are NOT looking for a resto harness, and you are converting to 12v, I would recommend just using an aftermarket GM style harness and fusebox combo. You can get an entire harness for less than $200 from places like EZ-Wire, Painless, etc. Also the GM style harnesses have almost the exact same wire colors as our Packard harnesses do. So under the hood where the wiring is visible, most of the colors will be exactly the same as the Packard wiring scheme.

I bought a 22 circuit harness because I am adding power windows, locks, AC, etc to my Packard, but keep as much of it hiden from view as possible. I bought Packard windows switches, but I will use a modern window motor setup instead of the hydraulic window setup they used in '54. But
you can find smaller circuit harnesses that will do just fine.

If you go to a modern harness, then you will have to swtich to 12v, as the wire size and rating in a modern harness is not sufficient to handle the higher amp load of a 6v system.

Glad you succeeded. Better luck than others have had getting it far enough forward. Speedo cable probably needs pulling entirely out, cleaned and relubed with the graphite based stuff made for that purpose. Make sure it isn't limp or kinked anywhere. Don't remember if that speedo does, but some have a small oil hole above shaft that could stand a drop of light oil to wet the felt.

As to clock, the points probably need cleaning & burnishing and mechanism probably also just needs cleaning & lube. Lube with instrument or watchmakers oil-nothing heavier. Others say they've had luck with WD_40 and just as many say no way. I vote with the latter because it seems to work for a short while but collects dust and becomes gummy on things I've used it on.

Obviously, the procedure document did not upload with this reply. If anyone is interested in the procedure, please contact me and I will send it to you.

I do not know if the Packard differentials are the same as early Cadillac ones, but I had an experience replacing the pinion oil seal in my 1939 Cadillac Sixty Special. It was not a straight-forward job. The complication was that once the spacer had been collapsed by tightening the pinion nut to set the pinion bearing preload, it would no longer provide the proper preload when retightened. To overcome this, a fellow Cadillac owner suggested using shims to restore the length of the spacer so that when it was retorqued, it would again be the proper length, and provide the proper preload. The tightening involved two parts; first, tighten the pinion nut with a considerable torque reading (200-300 lbs). To assure that it was not too tight or too loose check the overall torque to turn the pinion nut, with the brakes completely backed-off, to indicate a small torque reading in a few INCH pounds. Failure to provide the proper bearing preload would result in premature bearing failure. Included with this is a procedure that I helped him write describing the procedure to follow.

Well we are definitely going to have to get together, there may be more Packard people around than you think.
My grandfather bought a 49 Super new and when he passed my father kept it around for most of my childhood.The one I owned longest was a 48 Custom,still sorry I let that one go.But the list of ones I let go includes:
41 180 seven pass
55 Caribbean
55 400 (2)
53 Cavalier
Scads of Studes an a sprinkling of other makes now I have mainly Internationals and a 56 Golden Hawk.

For anyone else making this replacement, pay close attentino to part numbers.

Max Merritt sent me a 439278, which is the sender for the 53-54 models, instead of the 416276 for the 51-52 models. JD there said it is interchangeable. Not quite so. The TERMINAL is different. The 438278 for the 53-54 models has a ring terminal, whereas the sender in my 52 right now has a spade temrinal. Changing the terminal is cheaper than the freight, so I'll change to a ring terminal, but it ticks me off having to do so, as I don't normally keep electrical terminations or the proper tools for them laying around. Fortunately, my pro mechanic freind does.

Jim G

The wiring on my 52 Packard 200 Deluxe is one step short of fossilized, so I figure I'd betetr replace it before it starts to exhibit regular mysterious electrical gremlins.

I want to to ensure that whatever wiring harness I get meets the following objectives:

1. Modern plastic insulation for durability (I'm not into strict restoration by ANY means, and I only want to have to do this rewiring ONCE)

2. Will be suitable for my conversion from 6 volt positive ground with generator to 12 volt negative ground with alternator

3. My car is a simple one (200 Deluxe model with manual everything, and I really, really like simplicity and want to KEEP it simple, BUT I will shortly be adding a modern air conditioning / heat /defrost unit, since I live in Texas, this car is my daily driver, and black cars on 100 degree days every day for a month are no fun. So, the wiring harness has to be able to handle this, including power to the AC compressor clutch and to a pusher fan to assist in making the condensor actually effective.

What brands and part numbers should I be looking at?

Jim G

There was a logical explanation for why I could not find the lower stud nuts: the prior owner had left them off.

I had a gut feeling that might be the case, so I simply unscrewed the 2 top bolts, and tilted the instrument panel out. I unscrewed the speedometer cable, and voila, the panel easily came forward to the extent that the tight wiring allowed.

That allowed me to put electrical tape on that bare spot I mentioned earlier.

While in there, I lubricated the speedometer cable and speedo head (not going crazy with the oil). I thought that might settlethe speeometer down a bit - it "swings" about 2 or 3 mph around the indicated speed on the road - but it made no detectable difference.

It also allowed me to check the fuse in the clock, and find that it IS good, so the clock itself must be in need of repair or replacement. I'll look around for one that someone has tested and found to be working.

It's also pretty obvious to me that the wiring harness is original, and getting close to be a candidate for fossilization, so I figure I'd better ask you guys what approach to take on that (separate posting to keep threads clean).

Jim G

Quote:

Brian. It is a matter of opinion as to what ruins a forum. I am sure that many people enjoy the banter and high emotions of a forum where personal attacks and foul language are permitted but I for one do not and it is my hope that those who do will either move along or hold their tongues and behave like gentlemen on this forum. This is by far the best Packard forum ever and I applaud Kevin and others, like you, who have done so much to make it what it is. I would really hate to see it become a venue for vitriol about past history on other forums or the PAC etc.but this is not my site so it is just a persoanl opinion. Let's just let sleeping dogs lie, keep our negative thoughts to ourselves, be civil to one another, and just talk Packards.