Re: Packard Industrial Engines?
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Just can't stay away
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Yea that makes sense about the irrigation angle since the car came from around the Ft Collins, CO area as far as I can tell.
Thanks guys, for some info it would have hard if not impossible to come by anywhere else.It seems to run great but I am having some really bad probs with varnish in the tank.We drained it of course,(it had sat since 1983 or so) but this gunk must have been on the walls of the tank,it came through the filter and screens and carburetor and is lying on the bottom of the intake! Black as pitch and sets up when exposed to air.So I am waiting on a new carb kit and I guess we will pull the tank and clean it out. Any suggestions on a good (easy) way to do this?
Posted on: 2008/7/7 13:55
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Re: Packard Industrial Engines?
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Home away from home
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My guess would be that it was a stationary irrigation pump engine. They're pretty around here. (NOT Packards, but the stationary engines, I have a 320 V8 that was used as a stationary irrigation engine run on propane, but it was originally out of a '55 Hash)
Posted on: 2008/7/7 12:16
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Re: How to troubleshoot my overdrive?
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Home away from home
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This relay ought to work: It's a Bosch 0332204001, used as a headlamp relay on older (pre-1968) VWs. Cost is less than $17.
We'll see how the rest of the overdrive troubleshooting goes.
Posted on: 2008/7/7 12:07
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Re: New wiring harness?
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Home away from home
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JimG,
I have a 55 Clipper, and like BigKev, I am building a "driver" and plan to convert to 12V negative ground, add AC, power windows, and other creature comforts. For the "purists", I don't consider this as destroying a classic since when I bought the vehicle, it was a "basket case", and would probably have been on it's way to the crusher had I not bought it. My original harness was brittle and corroded, and when I started to investigate sources for replacement wiring. I found that OEM style and repro harnesses were quite expensive, so I decided to hand build a new harness myself. When I started pricing the components (wire, connectors, tape, etc.), it became obvious that I could purchase a pre-made universal harness for less than I could buy the components. After deciding that any harness I purchased would have to be comprised of the new GLX Crosslinked wire, I began searching vendors and found that most universal harnesses were similar, but fell into one two categories: 1. Universal with fusible link 2. Universal with master fuse Within these, there are a couple of different "levels", each equating to wire size and cost. In the end, I decided that my needs would be met by one of the EZ Wiring products, and I settled on a 21 circuit harness that I purchased from a vendor on eBay, for right at $150 shipped. Although I have not yet begun to install it, the product does appear well made and it looks like a quality product. The decision is yours to make, but I do recommend that you not base your decision on cost alone. Your own level of expertise regarding auto systems repair, and critical system requirements, and ultimate vehicle usage, should be the motivating factors. Sorry to be so longwinded, but a wiring harness will be one of the most difficult things to service once you have the car complete, so take your time and make a choice that you can live with. John
Posted on: 2008/7/7 9:49
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Re: Checking brake fluid level in master cylinder?
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Tobs and Big Kev are correct in the master cylinder location. I have obviously gotten my cars mixed up. Apologies to any I misled.
Posted on: 2008/7/7 9:44
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Re: New wiring harness?
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Just can't stay away
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Until now, I only ordered small parts. They were not to expensive.
And I am from Europe, the dollar is pretty cheap... The quality of their products is very good. Tom
Posted on: 2008/7/7 9:20
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Re: Packard Headlights
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Forum Ambassador
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I converted the seal beams in my to Bosch halogen H-4 with 6 volt halogen bulbs. While this may not be practical in a 34 the relay suggestion is a good one. I wired the headlights to be powered through a relay as Owen suggested using #10 guage wire to the relay. I have done this in the past to driving and fog lamps as well. This seems to help.
Posted on: 2008/7/7 8:38
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Re: Packard Industrial Engines?
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Forum Ambassador
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The ID-327 was based on the 3-1/2 x 4-1/4 327 engine with 5 main bearings. Horsepower is given as 78@1800 rpm, 88@2000, and 96@2200. The engines were equipped with a governor which limited rpm to 2400. There were four variants available, "A" was simply a basic engine for the purchaser to adapt to whatever his end use was. "B" included a heat exchanger cooling system, control panel and engine supports. "C" came with a radiator, fan, mounting rails and instrument panel, and "D" came supplied with a full external metal housing enclosure and optionally a gas tank. Some problems were encountered with the cast iron clutch ring when operators disabled the governor to run at much higher rpms and at least one fatality was recorded as the clutch and flywheel shattered. There are pictures of all 4 variants in Neal's book, but no particular information on what applications purchasers used these engines for.
Posted on: 2008/7/7 8:37
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Re: Packard Headlights
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Forum Ambassador
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The headlights (Solar 3 filament 3003 bulbs) in my 1934 Eight are more than adequately bright for nighttime driving. If you haven't done it, first resilver plate the reflectors. Then you might consider adding a relay so the resistance of the old headlight switch is eliminated by just using that switch to activate the relay (just as a horn relay works). By the way, the problem isn't that it's a 6 volt system, it's that the bulbs are 32 candlepower.
Posted on: 2008/7/7 8:24
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