Dear Jeff:

These cars started rusting soon after hitting the road so your case looks better than most. If you just want to drive the car getting a better one will only have it rusting out too.

Given the Clipper is not worth spending a fortune on there are products out there that can stabilize the situation and be painted over. One is West Systems G-Flex epoxy. One time I came out from under a 56 Packard and when I grabbed the bottom of the fender if started to come apart. I put it back together with G-Flex and unless the car was on a lift you would never know it was there. The outside looked untouched and felt like new steel. I wouldn't hesitate to use G-Flex to glue a whole floor in place, or reinforce rotted pillars, quarter panels etc. The stuff is good.

Not every car can be resurrected so this product will go along way to helping people keep their cars without a divorce.

Dear Kelly:

To be sure the diameter is no longer what it used to be due to rust but it was a calibrated orifice

I would try heating the hole with a propane torch, then take it to a local place and blow compressed air through it.

Also, wash the thing out with detergent and water, rinse with alcohol, dry with a cloth, then immediately rinse with brake fluid. This will remove gritty abrasives that will damage seals.

Dear Willard:

Call the Packard Museum in Dayton Ohio and ask if they can put you in touch with Bruce Hamilton. He has an actual 4-48 Roadster.

Hope this helps.

Dear trxhemi:

Wow.

Well at least you know where this crumb bum has been. I might try casing the area asking other business owners and telling them your sad story. Sometimes this turns up a response like "go see joe, he worked on all those cars".

People have found lost cars simply by going into barber shops, stores, and what not and telling a sad story. A Bugatti Type 41 Royale turned up that way.

Also, go back to the troopers and ask if any of those partial cars were auctioned. They may have slapped a policie title on your uncle's car and sold it. But I highly doubt they would admit to having made a mistake.

At least you can seal off any loose ends.

Dear ClassicCrusier:

That is one of the more practial Packards to own, so the fair price makes it more attractive.

Lie on a piece of cardboard and inspect the coil springs - they may be worn out and collapsed.

Next have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth. There is a center link that is subject to wear. Ditto the steering gearbox. Jack up the front and check for king pin wear the same way as ball joints.

Shocks usually need to be rebuilt, but look for signs of looseness in the control arms.

The motor should have 30+ psi of oil pressure and temperature in the middle of the gauge. The generator should charge, and if the gas gauge doesn't work the tank is probably dirty.

The rear quarters like to rust behind the doors so check for blobs of putty. In really bad cases you can see the running board from inside the car. Check the door bottoms for putty as well.

On the motor, the front mount should be intact and there should be two rubber stabilizer pads on each side of the motor. There is a heat control valve on the manifold which should work.

The brake pedal should be firm, and check for drum wear by stopping quickly. If the pedal feels like it is moving then the drums are probably shot. Big problem. The hand brake should work as well.

If the rear springs are straight they need to be rebuilt.

Check on the right side of the water pump for the intake tube. If there is only a hose coming out of the radiator, then the tube is missing.

Check the starter button. These usually wear and benefit greatly from the use of a relay.

Well that's it for now.

Dear trxhemi:

I know of another 55 Carribean that had a similar fate. It is now just a body shell on a chassis.

Your uncle's car only would have value to someone with another 55 Carribean that was junk. Usually empty shells don't have commercial value. If I were you I might try some detective work around the neighborhood of that body shop. If it wasn't junked you might find it.

There are some people in NJ who might be helpful as well. One operates a used car dealer in Garwood.

Hope this helps

Hi folks:

Let me give you the SAE definition of bump steer:

"Bump steer, or orbital steer, is used to describe what happens when the steering linkage is not level: the front tires turn inward or outward as the wheels and suspension move up and down. The vehicle direction will change without moving the steering wheel."

The only Packards capable of bump steer are 19th series and later Clippers, and post war cars.

Back in the 1970's GM tried to argue it's way out of building crooked cars by arguing that certain kinds of bump steer is beneficial. Yuk.

Um - Oh oh

If you sandblast the silencer then the unit is junk. Nothing bigger than 5-10 microns should be going into the silencer. Sand will go into the motor. Rust and paint should be removed using chemicals and captive abrasion (sandpaper). The intake and outlets should be sealed as well.

This type of air filter is a three stage system.

First visible particulates (50 microns) are slung off via the radiator fan. Second the air must change direction twice before entering the filter medium. Third the filter medium collects the remainder.

The paper idea is fine but really needs a foam seal on the top and bottom to prevent leaks. Paper can collect down to the under 5 micron range.

Dear willb:

Let's go over the basics of how to get the car started.

a) Key on, Run the electric pump. It will fill the carburetor in about 30 seconds.

b) Raise the hand throttle to 3 O'clock.

c) Pump the accelerator 3 to 4 times.

d) Press the starter.

e) Repeat c) after ten seconds

If this doesn't get the car started then some improvements will need to be made.

Good luck with your car

Dear Jim:

Here is a quick method to clear dirty idle air bleeds that may be causing an idle problem:

Rev the motor to moderate speed and quickly place your hand over the carburetor. The suction will help clear any dirt clogging up the air bleeds. A little spray Gumout before this proceedure will also help.

I like that pinhole story. Make sure all of the lines and fittings are air tight. Restored cars suffer more from air leaks than original cars.

Also, those rubber lines crossing over the frame is lousy. You can get the Airtex inline fuel pump from Bill Hirsch which can be put on the outside of the frame.

Hope this helps