Re: 1928 533 cold starting issue with carburetor
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No gasket.
I am thinking that I could make the cam push more securely against the aux air bell by adding a drop of solder on it. Any thoughts on that?
Posted on: 2019/5/30 19:15
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Re: 1928 533 cold starting issue with carburetor
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I identified the trouble of cold starting my car. It seems that there is about a 1/32" air gap round the aux air valve. Because it doesn't seal correctly, it admits too much air into the carb when it is cold and it wont start. If I manually close this gap, it starts up on its 2nd attempt. Everytime.
The aux air valve doesn't close correctly because the cam, which pushes up against the air valve on full choke, is not hitting the bottom of valve correctly. Any suggestions on fixing this issue? Is there an adjustment on the cam that I am overlooking? Thanks
Posted on: 2019/5/29 20:08
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Re: 1928 wiring distribution question
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Big Wires? Size is relative...
I assume you are talking about the 1/O + cable which goes to chassis ground, and the - 1/0 cable which goes to the floor start button and then to the starter. There is also a #10 wire (that is bolted from the 1/O - cable, connected just inside the motor compartment, next to the battery, and underneath the vacuum fuel pump unit) that goes to the ammeter See picture below... Make SURE your wire to the ammeter from the battery is at least a #10 AWG 30 AMP wire. Mine was a #12 which is good for only 20 AMPS. The generator which also charges the battery puts out at least 30 AMPS. With a drained battery and your generator charging your battery for a long time the 20AMP wire will get hot, deteriorate and has the potential to start a fire.
Posted on: 2019/5/29 12:20
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1928 exhaust diagram - 6 cyl
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I am going to put a tailpipe on my 544. (Currently the exhaust exits out of the muffler and under the passenger seat. Not good...)
I am looking for a picture or a diagram as to where the pipe exits under the car, I have been told under the gas tank on the passengers side but I don't see any 'old' mounting brackets or mounting holes.
Posted on: 2019/5/15 14:54
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Re: Electrical re-wiring question on 533
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I got it. ^Thanks^
Posted on: 2019/5/15 14:48
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Re: 533 Chassis Oiler
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I called Classic & Exotic as well as Bijur folks. Both have some parts. Thanks for the help.
This is going to be a large project as I will need to pull all of the drip oiler plugs out to clean the lines and the plugs. 3 hours on one plug and it still doesn't move. I may need to use a hoist vs jack stands for this task... BTW- Classic & Exotic had all of the parts to repair my fuel gage housing, glass tubing, red die, sending unit and unit tubing. 3 day turn around. Outstanding!
Posted on: 2019/5/13 20:05
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Electrical re-wiring question on 533
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I have several lights I am trying to get working on my 533.
I look at the wiring diagram below and it indicates that the circuit breaker relay and all other devices (except for the starter circuit) are powered off of the generator and that it is plus(+) DC volts. Plus (+) is chassis ground as well. All of my years of electrical training tell me I need a + and - to have a device work. If i look at the cigar lighter, I should have a + and - voltage to work correctly but I get a + VDC from the circuit breaker and a + chassis ground. What am I missing???
Posted on: 2019/5/12 19:44
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Re: 533 Chassis Oiler
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Excellent tip. I will check that out in the morning!
Thanks
Posted on: 2019/5/8 21:09
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Re: 1928 533 clutch issue
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Folks--
Thanks for all of the suggestions on my clutch issue. Turn out I had a lube/fluid issue and also had to adjust the clutch pedal. I might still have a pilot bearing issue, but will drive it around a bit before I tear into the trans. Gar
Posted on: 2019/5/8 19:42
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