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Board index » All Posts (BigKev)




Re: BigKev
#31
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BigKev
a rare sighting in the wild......

Attach file:



jpg  brunos.jpg (47.54 KB)
1_60d9df641aa2e.jpg 719X414 px

Posted on: 6/28 9:40
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Re: Engine will not turn over
#32
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BigKev
I've been running a 6v Delco starter on 12v for years without issue. But I did replace the starter solenoid with a 12v equivalent as those are what can get toasted on 12v. Sometimes they get fried open and sometimes fried closed.

Posted on: 6/28 9:17
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Re: Wheel prep for tubeless tires?
#33
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BigKev
Late on this, but my 54 wheels were so crusty they wouldn't seal and leaked air. I had them media blasted clean to remove any trace of rust, then primed with epoxy and painted inside and out.

The '54 rims are different as they were made for tubeless tires.

Posted on: 6/28 9:12
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Re: 4th of July
#34
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BigKev
Writing code once to change the banner automatically was much easier than remembering to change it for every holiday and then change it back!

Posted on: 6/28 9:01
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Re: Car Titles, engine numbers and vin #'s
#35
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BigKev
Wherever possible, I'd have the car re-titled using the Vehicle Number. It's the number that gives us the most information that is similar to a modern VIN.

It identifies the exact body model, year, and sequential production number.

None of the other numbers give you anything close, and any records that would have correlated are kaput.

Engine number gives you a year and engine type/CID but could be applicable to several models, and as we know can get swapped if an engine is not economically rebuildable vs a swap.

The Theft proof number can give us a rough year or range but are they are no a fast and quick reference that can be a guaranteed answer.

So with all that in mind, the VN is the only one that can give you info about the car, with just that number, and is decypherable.

Posted on: 6/2 8:57
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Re: Clipper tire size
#36
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BigKev
These are the tires I used on my '54 Clipper, they are radials that are made to look exactly like a ply-bias tire. Skinny tread, pie crust edge. The height ratio is perfect and skinny tread really helps with the low speed turning with no power steering.

Attach file:



jpg  Tires.jpg (284.91 KB)
1_60b66305e0958.jpg 1280X960 px

Posted on: 6/1 11:40
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Re: Copper Nickel Brake Line
#37
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BigKev
It's nearly impossible to replace the entire brake line in one piece with the body on the frame. These were installed by the factory before the body was mated.

Buy a flaring tool and bending tool, both of which are pretty cheap, and some extra fittings. My line runs as two pieces with a connection at the midpoint on the frame rail.

I used the lines from NAPA for both brake and fuel without issue. See my project blog for more info and pics.

Posted on: 6/1 11:20
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Re: 1954 Pacific figuring out the VIN
#38
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BigKev
Here is an example of a 54 VN Door Jam Plate. There were no provisions for the trim code on it, it was on a sticker on the passenger side of the glovebox.

The 1955 plate had the trim codes.

Attach file:



png  54VNPlate.png (13.91 KB)
1_60b65d0020cc9.png 332X88 px

Posted on: 6/1 11:14
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#39
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BigKev
Glad it was something simple and no extra parts required!

Posted on: 5/30 8:02
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#40
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BigKev
I would at least pull that side apart and check the axle and bearing. Check for any fresh witness marks where something could be rubbing/contacting.

Make sure the edge of the brake shoe metal isn't contacting the drum on the side. Also, make sure the drum isn't contacting any of the hardware or backing plate in any way.

Did you inspect the rear bearing before repacking it? Worn or stuck roller(s)? Scored race? Abnormally loose rollers, or ones with side to side play?

Last thing I could think of is incorrect axle play. Shim stack incorrect.

I'd pull it apart and at least inspect everything before ordering parts. It could be something that just needs adjustment.

Posted on: 5/28 10:35
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