As Don said, the quickest test is to clean the two wire connections and then short them together. The brake light should come on then.

If the brake lights come on, then the problem is the hydraulic brake switch. Replace the switch.

If they still don't light up, then use a multimeter or a 6-volt test light to check for voltage on each of those wires to ground (bare metal on the body somewhere). One of the wires should show voltage.

If voltage is shown, then the problem exists in the wire between the switch and the taillights themselves.

If no voltage is shown, then a problem exists at the headlight switch or in the wire between the brake switch and the headlight switch. The test light/multimeter can be used to check for voltage and the various spots to validate power.

Now that is all applicable to the regular stock electrical system, and I would still check the above.

The hitch in get-along is the addition of those turn signals. That splices into the brake lights circuit. So that adds additional points of failure.

Depending on how that was spliced in, one or more wires may have come loose. It would also have a power feed of its own. There is also a flasher relay involved. You would need to trace all the wiring under the dash and ensure that all connections are secure.

I'm not sure about the history of your wire harness, but being nearly 90 years old, an original harness would be well past its lifespan.

So no "Don's Oval Buttons, Inc." then?

Great write-up Don!

I brought the front seat parts, frame, tracks, etc up from the basement so I can mock up the exact seat placement, and also plug the old holes in the floor.

But to get to the seats in the crawlspace area of basement, I had to pull the top assembly out of that area first. So I figured I would just toss that back on the car first.

I'm pretty sure the transmission snubber on the Jackard was past it intended service life.




New one installed.




Also, new transmission to frame ground strap.




And got more of the interior panels roughly back into place

For this guys purpose of just getting running to move it onto a moving trailer, Id just go buy a universal 6 volt coil and a few alligator wire clips. Two minutes and he would be up and running.

Quote:

I've seen both and according to the PI Judging Guide, both are acceptable. Buy personally I like it when both are the same color.

To me, when one is black and one is cast, that alternating pattern zebra pattern looks odd. That is unless you're trying to evade German U-Boats.

The Eastwood "cast blast" look great on the manifolds BTW. Still holding up over 10 years on my 327.


From the far distance past when I painted them:

Thanks, that is Jackard Green No. 4!

This color started as a Suburu color, which was then converted from a B/C Urethane to S/S Enamel color.

The original formula was like 21 parts medium metal flake and 21 parts coarse metallic flake. We removed all that metallic and replaced it with 3 parts ultra fine metallic powder.

The color is totally different in the sun. This is in the garage, do not direct-direct sun.