Riki. Sorry for the sp error

Thanks Rikki , Ross. Keep up the good work. Just for ref: if you use keywords "1955 headliner install" ( no make model) you will see one at 12:42 min runtime and one at 26:40 run time , one shows the toothed retainer and the other stapling to tack strip and that one details trimming the bow listing on the sides to enable pulling down and stretching the sides to eliminate all side to side wrinkles. Are you saying there are no toothed retainers OR the tack strip to attach and stretch the liner side to side? Is there windlace? could you detail your procedure.
As stated before , the importance of sharing info on the most difficult and expensive hurdles on these oldies for DIYers is needed : For those entering the hobby to get a feel for what they do and do not want to tackle, to eliminate transport to and from shops during refurb, to complete a job when there is no expert specialty shop nearby ie very rural local, and to not be so far under water on the lower price point cars as to abandon projects so more of these can be kept on for others to appreciate.
I will be interested to see your progress. Certainly the 55 I did was described as show ready by the next owner and my 40 Willy's coup with 41 tilt nose (KRYPT to NIGHT)was acceptable for local cruise nights. (I'm not talking Riddler award here). Yes it was a play on words: say it fast- the other drivers nemesis (Superman ref) and in the more literal my possible outcome as described by my wife back in the day.
By the way- the wire frames littering the roadsides after elections are acceptable free headliner bow materials and other uses-(try to do a bowed headliner on a 40 Willy's coup with NOTHING THERE to start with. Carpet edge tackless ( not the wood at wall attachment but the metal toothed with the finished edge) can have the rolled lip trimmed off and can be used to reproduce rusted or missing headliner attachment.
Some more DIY advice-door panels can be saved/replaced/repaired at home. On fifties cars where they are water damaged/wrinkled even on doors with multiple colors separated by stainless trim , We created a process of recreating the full door panel with thin doorskin then spray gluing the original vinyl to it. In the areas where there was a pleated vinyl destroyed and rotting thread, we used new vinyl and cardboard by indenting the cardboard on its natural corrigations every inch then drawing pencil lines on those same lines on the back ,we were able to sew on a regular home sewing machine pleated vinyl panels of any size or color by sewing vinyl DOWN cardboard up following pencil lines creating perfectly straight pleats. Thick card board recreates fifties style-thin foam sandwiched in between for puffier look. As many know without a commercial machine and upper walking foot this usually cannot be done at home but it works this way because the supple vinyl is down in contact with the Toothed walking foot on a home machine. Leaving the sides an inch long simply spray glue these to doorskin and wrap n staple edges on back. Do an internet search for "the heaviest thread on a home machine" for info on all the settings. It was very satisfying to repair or remake one panel for twelve bucks and have people not be able to determine repairs from originals. Spray dye works well on door handle pulls if not cracked separating.
One last tip. A word about temperature. Body work, spray tack, weatherstrip adhesive etc will not perform at temps below 68 so if you are in the north working this time of year-heat the work area. Spray tack in the greenhouse in the sun! 80 degrees better. Even after heating- I used to place a light stand an old friend gave me and use old school spots, halogen work lamps etc on the area to be worked on until the sheet metal was warm on the palm . Then work in small areas. Be careful of heaters flames etc with the fumes caused by glues, sprays,paints bondo etc. wish I had more pics of all that but in the days before vlogs, forums and such I was more focused on getting the job done than tutoring. good luck all. Happy holidays.

On some vehicles there is full interior garnish moldings above the door openings so liner is stapled to tack strips and hidden by moldings. You should have replaced all tack strips as they crumble and will not hold staples. Are you saying there are no toothed retainers on your car? I assume you removed the liner so you saw it fully installed and have all retainers and moldings. There are videos on utube showing both types. One is on a 55 chev and is very similar to the 4 door clippers. 2 door may be different. I had mentioned on another thread a long time ago if a first time diy liner, best to start with a cloth one which is more forgiving. I advise patterning liner wide on sides and front and trim after. Pros usually need to steam a liner if leather, suede, vinyl etc. one vid shows steaming. If you have experience here this will serve to help others. Do you have a pro style steamer?

That would be "bondo" spreader. Darn auto correct!

Has no one replied yet? Where are you in the process? Do you have your sound /heat deadening in place? Have you sandblasted and etch primered all the side support rails tack strips, and retaining teeth and bows? Pictures please.
Usually the bows are numbered as removed so reinstall in same and install headliner hanging from these. With all windshield and rear glass trim removed-you might want to place the screws back into the visor retainer holes to make them easy to feel after final install so as to cut holes accurately . Normally the install starts at the front by stretching and gluing the frt edge. Then next day or after cure stretch frt to back and secure rear edge. Then the stretching and pulling to the sides and tucking inside to the tack strips and up to the teeth will commence. Holding the excess on the side with one hand and pushing up behind the tack strip with a bindi plastic spreader. Good luck. A final trim of excess and tuck behind the tack strip and cut for visors. Then there is the wind lace. Did you purchase new windlace?

The grove in the rubber and the 3 overlap clips are the only things to hold the trim. I assume the 3 clips still have the posts on them and were not broken off by the one who removed the trim? This very often happens when people are unaware that the interior trim must be removed to get to the retainers on the posts. I would also suggest that you check for the windshield sitting too low in the opening. If so those retainers shown on the service bulletin may, or may not rectify the issue. First verify the trim is the proper/ original shape. That it was not kinked, warped, or sprung when removed. The pinch weld in the opening must be in good condition and the opening unaltered. If this is verified,the procedure is this - take the windshield trim and hold it up to the vehicle on the roof line and the "A" pillars and the lower corners. The trim was manufactured to have its outer edge exactly follow the rolled lip edge on the body opening. When you hold the trim up aligning its outer edge to follow the body- carefully inspect and compare the trims rolled inner lip with the groove in the rubber weatherstrip. I think you will find it is a long way off. If the groove in the rubber is lower than the trim on top and to the inside on the pillars as I suspect then the shield is not in proper position and you will see the lower outside corners are way off line too and the trim will never stay in. Also , the trim edge which gets roped into the rubber must be a full fold. A crisp 180deg fold and in good condition. I suspect the auxiliary clips may push the shield in slightly on the bottom but will not lift the glass into its required position. The glass will need to be raised and held up approximately 3/16-1/4. When this is done you will see the trim now lines up with the slit and can now be roped in and will stay in place. A glass professional advised 2 ways to accomplish this. And my experience was that all wind noise and leaks at the upper corners of the 1955 windshield were gone. This is a process that will take much time and determination. The posts may be reattached to the stainless with proper techniques and materials also. Good luck.

Ok . I understand your plan. Good luck. Hope she runs great. I asked about the history of the carb and car because looking at one pic you posted it seems as if the two tiny holes that feed the idle bleeds under the blades on your baseplate are visably larger than a factory Packard 4gc. Possibly modified? Very hard to tell from that one pic and if you never drove it? If you would like to know the size of those by drill index size or would like any parts info, spring tension specs or info of doing the minimal testing of those floats and the preferred float level settings for the style of needle you are using- PM me to exchange phn #s.

Very good. Full restoration. Will this be 100 % factory correct? All original? The float assemblies are available (full wishbones) on mikes carburetor and carbs unlimited for about 40-48 . Since the car and carb has sat an extended period the shake test on your floats will be useless from evaporating. You can use the "cool and plunge" test into steaming water but be aware- these can get paper thin and weak and can test seemingly ok one day then fail shortly after being put into service. This can cause flooding,overflow, and fire hazard.

A while back the wishbone float assemblies were not available. Now it seems they are that is one hurdle down. May I inquire, are you confident this is the original carb for a 55 352 Packard? Do you know the history or can you tell us if the carb has small #s stamped in one corner of the air horn and what they are. Can you post a pic of the throttle body to main body gasket that came out when you disassembled it and a pic of the new one in the rebuild kit? I agree with others above that the blades are better not removed from the shafts for a couple reasons and the carb base being cast iron won't show wear or require bushing like other carbs. The return spring on the secondary side however needs to be in good shape through close inspection and cleaning because a rusted/thin weak spring will cause inconsistent idle after hard throttle pulls. Sorry I am not fully up on your project blog. Have you checked the choke stove tube? The exhaust heat riser crossover valve and bimetal? The vacuum balance valve,ck valve, treadle vac, wiper, vac pump , distributor advance, ? Are you running the oil bath? Is originality a necessity? How will you be using the vehicle primarily? Sorry for all the questions but these need to be addressed to make appropriate decisions on how to proceed with this carb.

Is the accelerator pump well the lowest point in the fuel bowls on these carbs? Has anyone seen corrosion cause issues in the check ball seat at the bottom of the pump well? Are floats available new for this carb?