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Board index » All Posts (k_packard)




Re: fan belt
#31
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Ken_P
vbeltsupply.com has a huge selection of v-belts, where you can pick based on the specs Dave so handily listed for you.

Posted on: 5/6 11:19
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
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Re: Ken
#32
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Ken_P
On the coolant mystery - the books are different. The 1937 service manual says the capacity is 20 qts, the 1938 service manual that covers both years says the '37 capacity is 17 qts.

I'm not going to worry about it anymore. I think I'm close enough.

Posted on: 4/29 10:13
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
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Re: My 39 money pit’s engine
#33
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Ken_P
Double diaphragm pump is correct.

The road draft tube is held on with a u-shaped clip and a single bolt and lock washer.

Good luck!

Posted on: 4/29 9:32
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
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Re: Ken
#34
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Ken_P
I have heard of what Mal has said. Other options include running a little diesel in your gasoline (one qt per tank), Marvel Mystery Oil, or other such snake oils. I think all those might work as preventative measures after the initial cleaning.

Honestly, unless you're having symptoms of excessive carbon buildup (compression ratio significantly higher than spec, pinging under load when timing is sat, overheating at load...), I wouldn't worry about it! I found mine when I couldn't make the engine run smooth and quiet. I'm almost there now.

Posted on: 4/28 20:48
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
#35
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Ken_P
Quote:

Owen_Dyneto wrote:
A little patience is suggested; the friction and thus heat generated by the new rings will subside as the rings begin to seat and better mate with the cylinder walls.


Thanks Dave... I'll report back when I have 1,000 miles on the new rings. Aiming for late May... I guess patience isn't a strong suit of mine :)

Posted on: 4/28 19:26
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
#36
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Ken_P
Quote:

kevinpackard wrote:
Is there a simple way to clean it off besides removing the head and physically removing it?


I don't think so, but other than the risk of breaking old studs, this is a pretty simple job.

I suspect the lower combustion chamber temperatures caused by the lower CR, maybe abetted by the cylinder head geometry, is the cause of this carbon buildup. Not a Packard-specific issue - Model Ts (I know, older engine) recommended pulling the head twice a year to clean the carbon. My shop manual also discusses needing to periodically clean out carbon. In my case, it was exacerbated by poorly fitting exhaust valves. Get your head gasket and a can of spray copper sealant from Permatex, lube your studs a week in advance, and it's a weekend job. Mine snowballed, but just the head gasket/carbon cleanout would've been a weekend.

Posted on: 4/28 19:25
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
#37
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Ken_P
Quote:

JWL wrote:
Quote:

Ken P wrote:
Thanks Owen!

On my compression. I was thinking about it last night, and it seems too high. Factory spec is 118 psi for the high compression head. My compression ratio appears to be about 7.8:1, vs 7.0:1.

This explains a few things. It seems like the car runs a bit hot, especially under load, and I thought I've heard light pinging a few times while pulling a hill, especially if lugging the engine a little bit.

Factory timing for the HC head is 4 degrees BTDC. I think I may try to retard it a degree or too and see how it runs.

Any thoughts?


Higher than normal compression test results may be the sign of an accumulation of carbon in the combustion chambers and tops of the pistons. This condition will also lead to pre-ignition as the carbon continues to stay hot. JWL


I think this is clear, but just to make it clear for anyone who might be following along or fighting similar problems. JW nailed it!

My car had high compression, overheating, and pinged under load - all due to an excessive carbon buildup.

Still fighting some minor heating issues, but removing the excessive carbon fixed many of my driving issues.

Posted on: 4/26 12:05
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
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Re: BigKev
#38
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Ken_P
That looks amazing! Does your cabinet on the right in the last picture roll so you can get to your blast cabinet?

I'll have to remember this idea for future garages - very slick way to organize.

Posted on: 4/26 8:53
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
#39
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Ken_P
On a lighter note - very pleased with how the engine is running as the rings seat. Pulls much stronger than it used to, and it is very quiet. I routinely get people asking me if it is running at a stop light. Still hunting for some small rattles, and it seems prone to a slight exhaust leak, but overall very happy.

Posted on: 4/26 8:47
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
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Re: Ken
#40
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Ken_P
Still plugging away. Edit: on the overheating issue, I've been plugging away on the tech sheet from the Packard Club website. I've eliminated most of it.

Took a trip this weekend. About 130 miles in total, mostly with my local car club. The car has 430 miles since the in-frame overhaul, and I'm still fighting a warm running issue. I had the radiator gone through when I had the engine out - it is a newer style core, not flat soldered. He flushed, flow checked, and pressure tested it, all sat.

I went through the water pump - clearance is a little out of spec (0.060" impeller to housing vice 0.021 - 0.039") but overall seems in good condition. The "brand-new" pump I have sitting on the shelf has zero impeller to housing clearance. Zero! So, I'll send that out for a rebuild.

I flushed the block with Evaporust for about a week, using a bucket and a heater. The evaporust turned black, which tells us it's working. The gano filter I have installed has also caught a bunch of gunk. A bunch.

I verified the timing, swapped in a new distributor to verify the advance springs and vacuum advance were all functioning properly. Plugs say it is not running lean, maybe just a tad rich even.

I pulled the thermostat off for my tour this weekend just to see what happened. With no thermostat, it heats up to almost 200F while going down the highway at about 50 mph.

After I got back from the tour, I popped a freeze plug, took a look. Everything looks pretty clean. Still some rust and iron deposits, but not mountains of crud.

Flushed the block and reinstalled the 160F thermostat (after verifying it works), and seems like it is still running warm. Sitting at a stoplight for 10 minutes waiting on a train, the car got up to about 185 while idling. It was 60F outside. Seems excessive. Similarly, running down the highway, running between 175 and 185.

Am I making a mountain out of a molehill? Is 185 "normal" for this car with a 160F thermostat? Should I try a different thermostat?

The car ran VERY rich (heavy black smoke due to carbon deposits in the head) for about 350 miles. Is it possible I clogged the muffler I installed about 5 years ago?

Also - the car is supposed to take 20 qts of coolant per the book. It takes 13, with everything drained, drip-free, and air blown as dry as I can get it. Does the book spec include the heater circuit maybe? (although I don't think the heater would hold 7 qts). Is the spec wrong in the shop manual?

Attach file:



jpg  Our tour group - new tires and trim rings.jpg (460.12 KB)
2964_6086c378e8ba6.jpg 1920X1440 px

jpg  Debris after 30 miles immediately after running evaporust.jpg (279.12 KB)
2964_6086c38b1dcb7.jpg 1920X1440 px

jpg  Debris after 135 miles.jpg (334.61 KB)
2964_6086c399f165e.jpg 1920X1440 px

jpg  Freeze plug hole between cyls 6 and 7.jpg (94.26 KB)
2964_6086c3a927069.jpg 1920X1440 px

jpg  Water pump.jpg (596.08 KB)
2964_6086c3b9ba859.jpg 1920X2560 px

jpg  Virgina country side.jpg (371.42 KB)
2964_6086c3c663741.jpg 1920X2560 px

Posted on: 4/26 8:36
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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