What, exactly would you like measured? Complete assembly overall length, shaft only, first to last lobe?

How exact would you like the measurement and in what units? I'll be pulling mine in the not-too-distant future.

Looks like something out of the robot apocalypse future in Terminator.

Very cool looking, but needs glossy paint and either the original mill or even bigger. If there was a Merlin engine under the hood, then $30k+ makes sense.

Thanks for the input Ross. I suspect the machinist would've delivered the news eventually, but a heads up on the symptoms is nice to get ahead of time. If a bore is in order, I'll be tempted to swap out a 288 head for the compression ratio advantage (and because technically a 327 is a bit too big for Panamericana. A big fat "288" on the head would help get a cheater engine past inspection).

I'm planning light modification of the engine only. It'll get shipped off to the machinist fairly soon for dip in the hot tank and general cleanup and tolerancing. The bores are clean, so I think I can get away with a hone, relieving the valve pockets, drilling and tapping the head for larger spark plugs, new pistons, rings, bearings, seals, yada yada yada.

As far as handling goes I have a copy of that book already. I'm also a degreed chassis engineer although those skills have largely atrophied. It's DEFINITELY getting a larger front anti-roll bar, but I'm curious about finding ways to lower the car while retaining the original lever damper design. At the rear, I'm thinking a four link would be appropriate for the final product, but I'm still sorting that stuff out.

Also, here's a gallery of pulling the pistons the other night. Clean, clean, clean. The only problem found was that five of the eight pistons had broken top rings, but you'd have never known by the way the engine ran.

http://imgur.com/a/a8Mh8#0

Darn, that's pretty freakin' cool! Wish it wasn't "spend all your money" season or I'd be inclined to call it a deal right now.

I'm wondering if you remembered to adjust and tighten down the positioning rod on the underside of the transmission tailshaft. Seems to me if that's loose you might end up with enough play that the clutch fork could be moving the engine on its mounts and that play could lead to a clutch that's not properly disengaged during a shift.

Three hours of cleaning. This engine is so damn pretty.

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I pulled the engine out this afternoon, noooooo problem. Here's what I came up with as an easy way to snatch the engine. I wanted to be careful with the head studs but also wanted a way to jockey the hoist hook for balance so I took a piece of 1" flat stock mild steel and laid it on top of the center head studs then used a hammer to make witness marks on one side. I then center punched those marks and drilled five 7/16" holes then bolted it to the rear five head studs. Overkill? Maybe, but I didn't want to take any chances and it made it really easy to level the engine. It'll also be easier to pick the engine when the transmission is removed. I still need to make a cradle for the engine, but it's sitting on my lift very nicely right now.

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That acme screw engine-pulling widget you've got is pretty slick. I think I'll just make a couple brackets out of scrap steel I've got laying around.

Anyway, here's a shot of the business end. I had to pull the head quick and get out of there so I didn't have time for a careful inspection, but a cursory glance said everything looked okay. Did notice the coolant passages have a lot of build up, so it'll need to be cleaned out. I'm going to try to get back over there and keep working today.