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That acme screw engine-pulling widget you've got is pretty slick. I think I'll just make a couple brackets out of scrap steel I've got laying around.

Anyway, here's a shot of the business end. I had to pull the head quick and get out of there so I didn't have time for a careful inspection, but a cursory glance said everything looked okay. Did notice the coolant passages have a lot of build up, so it'll need to be cleaned out. I'm going to try to get back over there and keep working today.

I pulled the engine out this afternoon, noooooo problem. Here's what I came up with as an easy way to snatch the engine. I wanted to be careful with the head studs but also wanted a way to jockey the hoist hook for balance so I took a piece of 1" flat stock mild steel and laid it on top of the center head studs then used a hammer to make witness marks on one side. I then center punched those marks and drilled five 7/16" holes then bolted it to the rear five head studs. Overkill? Maybe, but I didn't want to take any chances and it made it really easy to level the engine. It'll also be easier to pick the engine when the transmission is removed. I still need to make a cradle for the engine, but it's sitting on my lift very nicely right now.

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Three hours of cleaning. This engine is so damn pretty.

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Yeah, they didn't call them "Master Motor Builders" for nothing.

Just caught up with your blog. It'll really be interesting to see where this project takes you.

A bit of V8 Packard racing lore you might find interesting. I was trying to get an article together for one of the Packard mags when Jack Harlin, veteran Packard racer, was getting ready to check out for that great Packard Proving Grounds in the sky-- but I was too late. His son still has some memorabilia and some interview material, but he just bowed out after Jack died. Really too bad that Jack's Packard racing history never got written. Check it out, this guy ran a Packard in NASCAR!

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Ben,
I own a stock 1950 Packard like yours and I am fascinated by your project (and your energy). What are you planning for the engine? I assume you are planning to use the straight 8. If you are, I have a vintage Edmunds 2-carb manifold with carbs. I will sell it for $1500. This would work well for road racing.
For the chassis preparation you might want to find a copy of my book "How to Make Your Car Handle." It deals with the basic theory of chassis setup and adresses older cars like the Packard. One thing you will need for sure is a much heavier front anti-roll bar.
Fred Puhn
National City, CA
fredpuhn@cox.net

I'm planning light modification of the engine only. It'll get shipped off to the machinist fairly soon for dip in the hot tank and general cleanup and tolerancing. The bores are clean, so I think I can get away with a hone, relieving the valve pockets, drilling and tapping the head for larger spark plugs, new pistons, rings, bearings, seals, yada yada yada.

As far as handling goes I have a copy of that book already. I'm also a degreed chassis engineer although those skills have largely atrophied. It's DEFINITELY getting a larger front anti-roll bar, but I'm curious about finding ways to lower the car while retaining the original lever damper design. At the rear, I'm thinking a four link would be appropriate for the final product, but I'm still sorting that stuff out.

Also, here's a gallery of pulling the pistons the other night. Clean, clean, clean. The only problem found was that five of the eight pistons had broken top rings, but you'd have never known by the way the engine ran.

http://imgur.com/a/a8Mh8#0

If you have the broken top ring disease, you will find that the ring lands have worn out too wide and that the bores are probably bellmouthed in the first half inch or so. Really recommend boring and new pistons and chrome rings.

I once spent a long time comparing a 48 and a 51 chassis side by side with an eye toward the suspension geometry. I was suprised to find that all the angles and arms lengths were the same, even though they changed from lever shocks to airplane type. I was seeking to find why the later cars have a far better feel and much less bump steer. Eventually I found that in 51 they lengthened the outer tie rods so that they were the same overall length as the lower control arms. Presto, no bump steer as the steering arms operate in the same plane as the lower control arm.

Further measurements suggest that you can install the entire draglink and tie rods from a later car on a bathtub with zero modifications, tho I have not had the chance to do so yet. This would be about a 45 minute job. Otherwise, I am a big fan of Packard's original geometry.

The other big change for 51 and later was the wider rear spring leaves that gave a good deal more roll resistance and lateral stability. I have installed a rear roll bar on a 48 Custom with very pleasant results. Don't know if I would be in a rush to put in a four link without a careful geometry workup.

I can probably come up with a drag link assy if you want to try it.

Ouch, just checked your photos: the engine has been rung before as the oil rings are not the original type, and the top rings are very loose in their lands. Now I really recommend boring and new pistons.

I am following this post closely because i have a 327 L' block halfway apart trying to get it ready for the hot tank. My 52 200 deluxe had a 327 but when i got it it had a J 288 in it. the 288 is running fine but i wanted it to be back with a 327 on the rebuild. I have asked and prodded older gearheads about these motors and where to get parts/ Egge seems to be the unanimous choice for engine parts.
Question: has anybody ever adapted more modern H beam or I beam rods and forged pistons for these motors?

what about racing these motors? high lift cams? turbos? i have seen the aluminum finned head. i have seen a rat rod with a straight eight and a turbo some artistic plumbing>
so My motor probably wont see any racing. it may put it rollcage in it and run it at El Mirage this year for a pass or too. just for fun. because i have to completely tear out the interior to redo it so i thought i might have fun with it in between.
I come from a Midwest oval track racing tradition.
Happy New Year!

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Thanks for the input Ross. I suspect the machinist would've delivered the news eventually, but a heads up on the symptoms is nice to get ahead of time. If a bore is in order, I'll be tempted to swap out a 288 head for the compression ratio advantage (and because technically a 327 is a bit too big for Panamericana. A big fat "288" on the head would help get a cheater engine past inspection).