I have the original headlight switch in my 1947 Deluxe Clipper. There is a circuit breaker in it that protects the headlight and park lights wiring.
1.Can I rely on this CB after all these years or should I add a fuse into the circuit? Also, I need to wire in my fog lights.
2.Should I power the fog light switch from the same headlight switch terminal that goes to the high/low switch for the headlights?
3.Is it normal to have the fog lights and headlights on at the same time?

I looked at the wires going into the A-pillar and I think they look good enough to keep. I attach a picture showing them.

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Thank you for the reply. I don't think I need to replace mine either. The wiring harness in my trunk is still with the original wrapping, with no electrical tape repairs and I am not going to open it. I looked at the wires going into the harness near the dash and they looked good.

I am going to replace all wires from under the dash going into the engine compartment and all wires in the the engine compartment.

Thanks for the replies.
I think I will open the harness by the A-pillar and look at the old wires. Maybe, I don't have to replace the harness going to the rear.
When I opened the harnesses in the engine compartment, the insulation just crumbled off the wires. But, they were subjected to a lot of heat. I definitely have to replace all the wiring under the hood. There was a lot of patching with electrical tape there, but not under the dash, so there is some hope.

I am considering running the harness through the firewall, down to where the high/low switch is, then into an electrical conduit that I run along the frame, then into the trunk.
Would this be acceptable to the Packard community?

Thank you for your response.
It doesn't sound like this can be done with the headliner in place. Or, did I misunderstand what you said?

I need help to route a new harness to the rear of my 1947 4 door Deluxe Clipper.
I saw a previous post stating,
"To do it right, you really need to remove the dash. While it may seam like a pain, it can great simplify the task of routing. Half the battle is removing the old stiff, petrified wiring. The one tip I can give is leave a piece of the original wiring running up the A-pillar. The wiring for the tail lights, trunk light etc all run up the drivers side A-pillar, across the roof and into the trunk. If you simply cut the original wiring at the bottom of the A-pillar and leave at least one wire in place, then you can tape your new wiring to it, and use the old piece of wiring to pull it through. Getting the bundles of wiring up the A-pillar without a pull wire is a nightmare."
Does this advice apply to my car? My wires going up the A-pillar are in a harness. I can't just pull one wire up. Can I cut the old harness at the A-pillar and attach my new harness to the old harness and pull it into the trunk? I would have thought the harness would be secured at some point before getting into the trunk. I sure don't want to remove the headliner.

I really appreciate the responses. I will call these vendors.

Thank you for the advice. I was afraid I would scratch the dash if I took the whole thing out. I was able to just remove the instrument panel by first removing the ash tray, then the radio. Without these in the way I just removed the screws holding the panels covering the gauges.

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I need to replace all the wires in the engine compartment and under the car in my 1947 Clipper. The insulation just crumbles when I take off the wrapping. Many wires were repaired with electrical tape.
I am considering making up my own harnesses using the right color wires except for the ones with tracers, but I would like to wrap them with something that looks like the original wrapping. Is there such a thing?.
I may have to use friction tape.