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Board index » All Posts (tobs)




Re: Mike's 53 Caribbean
#31
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Tobs
A strange thing happened today...I had the caribbean washed at a local Hand wash place that has done good work on my daily driver. I told them not to wash the top to minimze water getting into the interior. They did a good job on the wash, but when I picked up the car, the drivers window would not go down! Somebody rolled it up hard or fast enough that the stop jumped past the stop on the door. Strange, but quick to fix.
Someday I will take off the door cards and Service everything inside the doors....

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Posted on: 7/17 15:40
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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Re: 56 Caribbean Convertible Rejuvenation
#32
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Tobs
I can recommend hydro electric in Florida for all your top needs.
https://www.hydroe.com/
I had them rebuild the pump, the switch, and got New hydraulic rams from them.

Posted on: 7/17 15:33
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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Re: 1954 Packard rear end differential
#33
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Tobs
This past week when I put my rear axle back together, I used 75W90 GL5 oil that I already had on the shelf in my garage. At the time, I thought I would change it in a few days to 85W140 for "extra protection", but after reading more about viscosity and stuff in Richard Michell's oil handbook, I think I may actually stay with the 75W90. In 2005 the viscosity scales changed a little bit, and if I want to use a multi-viscosity oil, and stay around the same viscosity as packard specified, the 75W90 is actually a good choice. In the book it also mentions for classic cars that are in some competition or hard driving, a 75W110 would be a good choice when the original spec called for the old SAE90. The 110 being one step up on the viscosity chart I guess.
When I was younger, I ran 20W50 engine oil, but have changed my choice to lighter oil in my cars (10W40 in all my cars).
At about 140 degrees F, the 85W140 grade oil is about twice the viscosity as a 75w90 (100 vs 50 cSt) It seems like that might just be extra drag.
I guess all these oils will keep the rear axle alive and well, but it seems to me like the "lighter" 75W90 or 80W90 or 75W110 are close or slightly above the packard spec and will offer enough protection, and the 85W140 oil might just slow you down.

Posted on: 7/14 15:40
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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Re: Rear axle housing paint
#34
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Tobs
I'm not sure if you have it there up north, but in Germany, I like to use "Brantho Korrux" 3 in 1. It is easier to apply that POR15, for sunny weather cars it is certainly tough enough, and looks good for my taste. I would also vote for a nice coat of semi-gloss black paint.

Posted on: 7/12 6:20
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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Re: Mike's 53 Caribbean
#35
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Tobs
I had some time the last few days and got the rear axle back together....Getting around to some tidbits I had laying around, and I installed the 00 battery cable that I ordered from batterycablesusa.com. The length is just right, and the diameter of the wire is impressive. The picture below does not really do the cable justice. It is like a copper water pipe going from the battery to the starter! I tried one start since installing, and would say that it turns over a little quicker than before. Happy with the cable. I may try and remove the .com advertisement lettering on the cable with some brake cleaner or something since that does not look so period correct. Good to be back on the road!

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Posted on: 7/12 6:13
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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Re: Mike's 53 Caribbean
#36
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Tobs
Some more progress....After removing those dents/burrs, I was able to install the axle and bearing assemblys easily and also with a light hammer blow move them back and forth to check the free play. However with my new Timken bearings and "china races", the needed shim stack thickness was still about 0.095 inch which seemed like alot.
After a lot of thinking, I put back the old bearing races (Bower races) back with the new bearings, and was able to get .004 inch clearance while using one 0.020 shim on the drivers side, and on the passenger an .020 and an .005 shim.
(When I took the car apart, it only hat one .005" shim more than what it is now).
I am now happy that I can at least put things together with a reassonable amount of shimms and have the correct tolerance.

The old bearing races still looked good, so I think I am just going to use them. I was able to measure the thickness of the new bearing races, and that looked good. However, I am not able to measure the cone section of the race, which I think might be out of tolerance.

This has been an ordeal to get right. I can pull and install axles and measure endplay in my sleep by now. I also just got a new dial indicator and stand to measre this all with! Fancy new toy

Posted on: 7/9 6:02
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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Re: Mike's 53 Caribbean
#37
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Tobs
I put the axles and backing plates in, and was trying to get the bearing play set with shims, and found out I needed a lot of shims, plus the gasket to get the free-play correct. I asked Ross about getting some shims sent to Germany, but he was suspicious that something else was wrong. When I took things apart, I found that the passenger bearing race wass hanging up on the housing and not going in the last milimeter or two.
The passenger bearing race was a real bear to pull out with a slide hammer. The driver side was easy....I found two ridges on the inside of the housing where the bearing was hanging up, and can also feel two bumps on the inside of the axle housing by the ridges. On the outside of the housing I can see two marks where a chain (tow truck driver?) looks to have dented the axe housing....
I'll clean up those burrs, ridges and dents and see if the bearing then goes in easier.

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Posted on: 7/8 5:54
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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Re: Mike's 53 Caribbean
#38
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Tobs
Measure twice cut once, or in this case....measure once and hit twice. I measured the installed depth of the seal, and the position of the sealing surface on the axle, and then decided to give drive the seal 1/2 inch deeper. Now it should all line up.
I installed the shims and paper gaskets, and made a tool like in the shop manual to measure the endplay....I'll get to that soon and remove shim(s) as needed. I'm gettin' back into the groove.

Posted on: 7/2 15:25
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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Re: Mike's 53 Caribbean
#39
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Tobs
The machined area on the axle shaft is about 1 inch wide, so as long as the back of the bearing or a shoulder on the axle shaft is not pressing on the seal, I should be OK.
Thank for the pic Kevin, that looks like how far I got the passenger side in, and the one I was concerned with. The driver side went in about 3/8 inch deeper, and I was happy with that one...Guess I am over thinking/worrying here.

Posted on: 7/2 4:22
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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Re: Mike's 53 Caribbean
#40
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Tobs
I could use some advice here. One seal I was able to drive in quite well and I am certain that is far enough. The other (passenger) side does not want to go any farther, and I dont want to kill this seal. Is this seal in far enough, or should I really hammer it home?
Thanks fellas!

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Posted on: 7/1 15:17
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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