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Board index » All Posts (rhinelander0927)




Re: Alternator wiring instalation
#31
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Just can't stay away

casey rog
Thanks Don,
I checked the output of the generator and regulator which I also bought on e-bay as a rebuilt and "sealed" replacement.
It was putting out 7 volts, but only 7 to 8 amps at medium speed. I replaced this unit with the unit that came with the car and am getting 7.5 to 8 volts and 8.4 to 9.4 amps at medium speed.
I will not replace the generator, but keep checking the output on the existing.
Thanks again,
Casey Rog

Posted on: 2014/7/22 9:17
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Alternator wiring instalation
#32
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Just can't stay away

casey rog
alternator wiring.
Hello,
I purchased a one wire 6 volt alternator on e-bay along with the voltage regulator. However I have no clue how to wire it to my 1951 300. The regualtor has terminals marked: bat, fld, and arm. Your help would be appreciated since my 300 runs fine except after I drive it and the it sits for a couple of hours, the starter cranks slowly.
Thanks,
Casey Rog

Posted on: 2014/7/11 20:30
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Re: fransmission fluid spewing ultramatic
#33
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casey rog
Tim,
How much higher should the fluid level in the transmission read on the dip stick when the engine is cold?
I'm considering cutting a door in the floor above the the
dip stick so I can check the fluid level easily without jacking up the car.
thanks,
Casey

Posted on: 2014/2/28 23:51
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Re: fransmission fluid spewing ultramatic
#34
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casey rog
Thanks,
Everyone for your insight. I'll try it again if it's warm enough this weekend. I'll run the engine till warm, turn off the engine and see where the leaking is coming from.
If it is the vent, I'll take off the radiator cap to relieve the coolant pressure. If the leaking stops I can assume the trans cooler is leaking.
But first, I'll recheck the dip stick cap.

Posted on: 2014/2/21 9:32
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fransmission fluid spewing ultramatic
#35
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casey rog
I have a 51 300 with a 53 ultramatic. I installed the transmission last summer, drove it a few times with no problems or leaks.
This winter I start the car every few weeks to keep the fluids moving. Last week I started the car, ran it for about 20 minutes, (no trans fluid leaking). When I turned off the engine I heard a guirgling sound. Looking under the car I saw trans fluid leaking on both sides of the pan.
I know I torqued the trans pan properly and attached the lines properly since I pulled the engine.
I started the car yesterday (33 degree temperature, the first time the tempertaure was about 15 degrees), and the same thing happened after I turned off the engine: no leaks when it runs, leaks after I turn it off.
Unfortunately it has been too cold to get under the car and see exactly where the leak is occuring.
Plese help, I finally have the car running on all 8 cylinders after the rebuild, the trans ran like new after the summer, and I was looking forward to crusing a soon as it gets warn.
Thanks everyone in advance.
Casey Rog

Posted on: 2014/2/20 13:56
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Re: ground strap
#36
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Just can't stay away

casey rog
I had problems starting my 51 300 after I replaced the rings.
I went from a braided ground strap to a 00 cable I got from Farm and Fleet, it was $10.00 for the two foot length. From the battery to the solenoid I bought the proper 30" length from McMaster Carr, $19.99. The new cables make starting a lot easier with the 6 volt system, and the cable ends do not get hot after a long period of cranking.

Posted on: 2013/10/21 16:11
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Re: noisy hydralic lifter
#37
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casey rog
Thanks Owen,
I'll do that and plan on replacing the lifter during the winter when I can't drive the car due to the snow. I plan on driving the car a lot this summer.

Posted on: 2013/7/31 16:43
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noisy hydralic lifter
#38
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casey rog
I took replaced the rings on my engine, finally got it started and now have one noisy hydraulic lifter. The car is a 51 300 with the 327. The noisy lifter is in the front of the engine. Is there way to locate exactly which lifter is noisy before taking the head off?
Thanks in advance, also I would like to thank McGyver and Ross for their help on this Forum. I replaced my 51 trans with a 53 trans (the flywheels and trans to drive shaft are different),runs beautiful now, I followed Ross' instructions for adjusting the linkage and I had all the gears with the initial adjustment. I took McGyver's advise regarding using the red scotch bright pads to smooth out the cylinder honing. I used a 4" cotton wheel usually used for polishing, wrapped the pad around it and used my hand drill the re-hone (with the pads) the cylinder walls. Worked like a champ, no problems starting, and I don't burn oil anymore.
Thanks, again
Casey Rog

Posted on: 2013/7/31 8:46
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Re: hole in radiator
#39
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casey rog
Thanks Tim
I'll give it a shot
Casey Rog

Posted on: 2013/4/17 16:45
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hole in radiator
#40
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casey rog
I would like any help in repairing a hole I poked in my radiator last night. My auto is a 1951 300. I have sweated my copper pipes together in my house, and I did lead work on my Packard, so I have the equipment available,
(I hope). I would like some guidance.
Thanks in advance
Casey Rog

Posted on: 2013/4/17 14:45
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